Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,824 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 18, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

Stand start on jug at above head height. Put on feet high on nubbins, deadpoint/dyno to next jugs up, Put feet on jug, dyno/deadpoint to next jug. top out straight up.
This problem will scare you with its height and the level of commitment required at first but it becomes easier witht he more pads you have!

Location

Backside on Ride the Lightning boulder.

Protection

Climb up boulder before doing climb to brush off topout !!IMPORTANT!!
Topout in lichen covered and pine-needle covered.
Have multiple pads and multiple spotters or don't fall!

Photos

Careful of those holds, particularly at the top...they're creakers. Other than that, this problem is highly unique and exciting! There are about four big holds on this thing other than the lip. They're all about four feet apart, too. Awesome... Sep 12, 2007
Bjorn
WNC
Bjorn   WNC
FA Dean Potter May 31, 2009
andyscott
Massachusetts
  V3
andyscott   Massachusetts
  V3
sweet problemo Sep 11, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
  V3
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
  V3
did it the otherday and wow! deffinately fun! but the top is deffinately very heady haha... got up there the first time and thought... umm no.. hopped down but the second time (after some contimplating) sacked up and pulled the last slopey moves :) very fun! Nov 21, 2009
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
Look for a hidden left-hand gaston at the top. It makes things a little less spicy. Dec 1, 2013
Andrew Nelligan
Henniker, NH
  V3
Andrew Nelligan   Henniker, NH
  V3
Sadly the 3rd hold let go this weekend (in the form of a perfectly NH-shaped flake), leaving the extremely slopey left side of the hold. We did not try the route this way, but it would be significantly harder than the original grade. Dec 4, 2016
Eli .
GMC3500
  V3-4
Eli .   GMC3500
  V3-4
I climbed this route today by traversing way right on similarly friable holds and topping out on some good slopers. Probably not as good as the original, but it still goes. I’m wondering if Up was affected by the breakage as well. Nov 11, 2018