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Routes in The Storm Boulders

Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 850 total, 9/month
Shared By: andyscott on Nov 10, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Start on two underclings, then dyno to a jug. Trend right a little and finish on Storm Pockets.

Location

In between Storm Pockets and Mothra Stewart. It is closer to Storm Pockets. Just to the left of it.

Protection

pad

Photos

Tristan Baldwin
Amherst, NH
  V6
Tristan Baldwin   Amherst, NH
  V6
This climb really should start at the lowest part of the creaky flake and not at the underclings. The feet are terrible that low, so the crux is probably laying back on the flake as you get up to the underclings. A fun high step will get you going. In my opinion the crux is getting into what the guidebook would describe as the start. From the underclings, I think it would be mid-soft V5. Getting to them involves some body positioning and some genuine try-hard. The low flake which starts as two incut holds down low and transitions into an incut sidepull before curling around into the underclings is about as creaky as the jug up high. This would be a 4 star problem if the holds weren't pealing of the face! Also, the big move to the jug isn't really that big and can be done without a violent throw. Your feet will stay on. I think the broken jug brings it enough closer to make the toss much easier than it would have been before the break. Dec 13, 2015
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6
I never tried this problem before the break, but I climbed it today and I would say v6 seems appropriate for its current state. All of the holds up there are still quite good. They are also quite creaky! Too bad that's the case, because this climb is quite fun. I'd give it three stars for movement and one star for rock quality. Guess that averages out to two stars? :) Aug 14, 2013
The jug that remains is good but pretty sharp; cut my middle finger. Apr 24, 2013
AWinters
NH
 
AWinters   NH  
 
Thanks Julian.. Andy, there is still a jug to the left, who knows how strong it is? Oct 22, 2010
andyscott
Massachusetts
 
andyscott   Massachusetts
 
That jug was flexing quite a bit. Is there any type of hold there anymore? Oct 3, 2010
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
Well, it was only a matter of time. Glad you're not seriously hurt, and hope the wrist heals up quick. Sep 27, 2010
AWinters
NH
 
AWinters   NH  
 
I tore the jug off today. While matched on it I got my feet up to move right and POP! I fell back with my feet above my head onto my hip, missing the pads completely. Think I sprained my wrist. There's still a jug, be careful! Sep 26, 2010
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
It starts on the crimps/flakes that you use for feet to get into the undercling, but the sit doesn't add much (if any) difficulty. I've always just assumed that the guidebook is wrong because the sit is always chalked and I've heard some of the older locals call the problem an entirely different name... May 14, 2010
andyscott
Massachusetts
 
andyscott   Massachusetts
 
Anyone know about a sit start to this problem? May 13, 2010