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Routes in South America Wall

Border Crossing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fern Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flakes Alive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Good Book, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Horcrux, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Orphan Angry T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prophecy, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
South America Flake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Lee Hansche 9/6/16
Page Views: 236 total · 3/month
Shared By: Glenn Cilley on Oct 14, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

A much better, Harder, and more interesting climb than it looks from the ground. The 20 feet of business climbing is serious and technical involving a great variety of tricks.

Start by scampering on to the large ledge below the bolted face. gather yourself and when you find your moment... Move up in to the steep section on good hold that get worse as you climb. As you find yourself looking up in to the crack from below, figure out your plan and get to the jams with difficulty. The crack is very sharp, I had to tape my hands and key fingers so that I could lose minimal flesh. The tough thinner crack leads to perfect hands and fists and eventually a tricky but not overly challenging exit on to the slab above. A 2 bolt anchor lies above.

This route can seep when things are wet but once I scrubbed it it stayed pretty dry most days.

Location

Start just right of Layback by scrambling up on to the large ledge below the face with 2 obvious bolts leading to a short crack.

Protection

1 pin
2 bolts
and a couple/few cams from #1-#3

Photos

Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
I don't think this has seen an FA yet. Much harder than 5.9 that's for sure. Oct 17, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
After a few days of working on it, today I managed to send this old seemingly abandoned project.
I gave 'er a name, took a stab at the grade and updated the description.

The old "Seeping Crack 5.9?" description is no longer. Turned out to be harder and way more entertaining than it looked :) Sep 6, 2016
Nice work Lee! We saw the chalk on this over the weekend and were guessing you'd been on it. It was cool to at least get an idea of how it went from the tick marks. Not so straight forward as one might think from the ground. Is that seem to the left next? Looks less painful at least. Sep 8, 2016
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
You're on to me! haha
yeah, Little Orphan Angry was a real puzzle to put together.

That seam is at the top of my wish list. It is painful but the crux is finding it dry ;) Sep 8, 2016

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