Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Unknown?
Page Views: 346 total · 4/month
Shared By: Michael Z. on Oct 10, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

If you like groveling strenuous off width type climbing this will be a favorite.

Off the ground stem, jam, smear, and wedge up a left leaning bomb-bay V groove. Pull out of the groove to a nice ledge, and well deserved rest, then follow an easier corner to quick clips.

Tape could be helpful as the fist jams can be quite painful, Ouch!

Location

Approaching Dicky Ledge from the base The Good Book is about one hundred feet right (Northeast) of South America Flake.

Protection

Bring a small selection of large Cams BD #3 to #4 as well as a finger sized piece if you want to sew up the last move. Lower off Quick Clips

Photos

Mike Robinson
Grand Junction, CO
 
Mike Robinson   Grand Junction, CO
 
where'd you get the photo from? Oct 10, 2011
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
  5.10d
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
  5.10d
There is an alternate start just right that goes at 5.10+ but is seldom dry. Oct 17, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11
The first route i climbed at Dickey... what a rude awakening haha... great fun! awkward and painful... thats fun right? Apr 8, 2012
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
This is soooo much more heinous than it looks (and it looks pretty heinous). Jan 11, 2017