Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South America Wall

Border Crossing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fern Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flakes Alive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Good Book, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Horcrux, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Orphan Angry T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prophecy, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
South America Flake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Unknown?
Page Views: 295 total, 4/month
Shared By: Michael Z. on Oct 10, 2011
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

If you like groveling strenuous off width type climbing this will be a favorite.

Off the ground stem, jam, smear, and wedge up a left leaning bomb-bay V groove. Pull out of the groove to a nice ledge, and well deserved rest, then follow an easier corner to quick clips.

Tape could be helpful as the fist jams can be quite painful, Ouch!

Location

Approaching Dicky Ledge from the base The Good Book is about one hundred feet right (Northeast) of South America Flake.

Protection

Bring a small selection of large Cams BD #3 to #4 as well as a finger sized piece if you want to sew up the last move. Lower off Quick Clips
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
This is soooo much more heinous than it looks (and it looks pretty heinous). Jan 11, 2017
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.11
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
  5.11
The first route i climbed at Dickey... what a rude awakening haha... great fun! awkward and painful... thats fun right? Apr 8, 2012
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
  5.10d
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
  5.10d
There is an alternate start just right that goes at 5.10+ but is seldom dry. Oct 17, 2011
Mike Robinson
Worcester, MA
 
Mike Robinson   Worcester, MA
 
where'd you get the photo from? Oct 10, 2011