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Little Orphan Angry
5.12c,
Trad, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Lee Hansche 9/6/16
New Hampshire
> WM: Waterville…
> Welch & Dickey…
> Dickey Ledge
> 01. S America Wall
Description
A much better, Harder, and more interesting climb than it looks from the ground. The 20 feet of business climbing is serious and technical involving a great variety of tricks.
Start by scampering on to the large ledge below the bolted face. gather yourself and when you find your moment... Move up in to the steep section on good hold that get worse as you climb. As you find yourself looking up in to the crack from below, figure out your plan and get to the jams with difficulty. The crack is very sharp, I had to tape my hands and key fingers so that I could lose minimal flesh. The tough thinner crack leads to perfect hands and fists and eventually a tricky but not overly challenging exit on to the slab above. A 2 bolt anchor lies above.
This route can seep when things are wet but once I scrubbed it it stayed pretty dry most days.
Location
Start just right of Layback by scrambling up on to the large ledge below the face with 2 obvious bolts leading to a short crack.
Protection
1 pin
2 bolts
and a couple/few cams from #1-#3
[Hide Photo] Clipping the second bolt as the tough stuff begins
[Hide Photo] A bit higher up on the route. There are good feet but some pretty crazy tactics
[Hide Photo] two bolts just right of Layback..Enlarge the photo
somewhere in the USA
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
I gave 'er a name, took a stab at the grade and updated the description.
The old "Seeping Crack 5.9?" description is no longer. Turned out to be harder and way more entertaining than it looked :) Sep 6, 2016
Thornton, NH
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
yeah, Little Orphan Angry was a real puzzle to put together.
That seam is at the top of my wish list. It is painful but the crux is finding it dry ;) Sep 8, 2016