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Little Orphan Angry

5.12c, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Lee Hansche 9/6/16
New Hampshire > WM: Waterville… > Welch & Dickey… > Dickey Ledge > 01. S America Wall

Description

A much better, Harder, and more interesting climb than it looks from the ground. The 20 feet of business climbing is serious and technical involving a great variety of tricks.

Start by scampering on to the large ledge below the bolted face. gather yourself and when you find your moment... Move up in to the steep section on good hold that get worse as you climb. As you find yourself looking up in to the crack from below, figure out your plan and get to the jams with difficulty. The crack is very sharp, I had to tape my hands and key fingers so that I could lose minimal flesh. The tough thinner crack leads to perfect hands and fists and eventually a tricky but not overly challenging exit on to the slab above. A 2 bolt anchor lies above.

This route can seep when things are wet but once I scrubbed it it stayed pretty dry most days.

Location

Start just right of Layback by scrambling up on to the large ledge below the face with 2 obvious bolts leading to a short crack.

Protection

1 pin
2 bolts
and a couple/few cams from #1-#3

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Control is needed to keep the red water from coming out.
[Hide Photo] Control is needed to keep the red water from coming out.
She is angry, but she's worth it
[Hide Photo] She is angry, but she's worth it
Clipping the second bolt as the tough stuff begins
[Hide Photo] Clipping the second bolt as the tough stuff begins
A bit higher up on the route. There are good feet but some pretty crazy tactics
[Hide Photo] A bit higher up on the route. There are good feet but some pretty crazy tactics
two bolts just right of Layback..Enlarge the photo
[Hide Photo] two bolts just right of Layback..Enlarge the photo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
[Hide Comment] I don't think this has seen an FA yet. Much harder than 5.9 that's for sure. Oct 17, 2011
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
 
[Hide Comment] After a few days of working on it, today I managed to send this old seemingly abandoned project.
I gave 'er a name, took a stab at the grade and updated the description.

The old "Seeping Crack 5.9?" description is no longer. Turned out to be harder and way more entertaining than it looked :) Sep 6, 2016
Mike Zarnowski
Thornton, NH
[Hide Comment] Nice work Lee! We saw the chalk on this over the weekend and were guessing you'd been on it. It was cool to at least get an idea of how it went from the tick marks. Not so straight forward as one might think from the ground. Is that seem to the left next? Looks less painful at least. Sep 8, 2016
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
 
[Hide Comment] You're on to me! haha
yeah, Little Orphan Angry was a real puzzle to put together.

That seam is at the top of my wish list. It is painful but the crux is finding it dry ;) Sep 8, 2016