Mountain Project Logo

Routes in South America Wall

Border Crossing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fern Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Flakes Alive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Good Book, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Horcrux, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Layback T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Orphan Angry T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Prophecy, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
South America Flake T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FFA- LeeHansche 9/1/17 (TR) 9/3/17 (Lead)
Page Views: 117 total, 46/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 3, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Due to extremely persistent wetness this line has gone nearly unnoticed for decades. I however love a nice thin crack and I am also extremely persistent.

So I cleaned it out 2 years ago in hopes that it would dry out easier if it was clean. I removed moss, lichen, MGS (mysterious green slime) and a good amount of chossy rock. Though I came back regularly to check on it I started to think It would never dry. This past week however the unthinkable happened and the perma-wet crack enjoyed a whole week of dryness. I put in two session on it (the second being an alpine start to beat the coming rains and for I know another two years of wetness) and sent on my second lead attempt.

Most of the difficulty is neatly packaged in the first 15-20 feet. A devious v4/5 boulder problem. After that you get a good shake and some 5.10 climbing until the final bit up to and over the mantle move finish. There is an anchor just over the lip but I feel like an anchor would be helpful higher up and would encourage folks to be sure to top it out since the mantle is the redpoint crux. I just climbed up to the trees above and lowered off of a sling.

Good luck with the wetness but if it's dry and you like this sort of thing, GET AFTER IT!

Location

Between The Good Book and The Horcrux there is a perfectly vertical blank wall with horizontal breaks. This route climbs the thin seam that splits the center of the wall.

Protection

I used a Purple C3 precariously placed in a pod to protect the crux about 10 feet off the ground.
I placed 2 small-ish nuts side by side in the good rest hold after the crux. Then reached up to place a #4 stopper in the next good pod. Finally a #5 stopper that protects the upper crux. On the redpoint I ran it out all the way through the top out above the #5 then clipped one of the old anchor bolts before continuing all the way up to the trees.
I plan to install a better/higher anchor than the one that is there now.

Photos

0 Comments