Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||FFA- LeeHansche 9/1/17 (TR) 9/3/17 (Lead)|
|Page Views:||597 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Lee Hansche on Sep 3, 2017|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
So I cleaned it out 2 years ago in hopes that it would dry out easier if it was clean. I removed moss, lichen, MGS (mysterious green slime) and a good amount of chossy rock. Though I came back regularly to check on it I started to think It would never dry. This past week however the unthinkable happened and the perma-wet crack enjoyed a whole week of dryness. I put in two session on it (the second being an alpine start to beat the coming rains and for I know another two years of wetness) and sent on my second lead attempt.
Most of the difficulty is neatly packaged in the first 15-20 feet. A devious v4/5 boulder problem. After that you get a good shake and some 5.10 climbing until the final bit up to and over the mantle move finish. There is an anchor just over the lip but I feel like an anchor would be helpful higher up and would encourage folks to be sure to top it out since the mantle is the redpoint crux. I just climbed up to the trees above and lowered off of a sling.
Good luck with the wetness but if it's dry and you like this sort of thing, GET AFTER IT!
I placed 2 small-ish nuts side by side in the good rest hold after the crux. Then reached up to place a #4 stopper in the next good pod. Finally a #5 stopper that protects the upper crux. On the redpoint I ran it out all the way through the top out above the #5 then clipped one of the old anchor bolts before continuing all the way up to the trees.
A two ring bolt anchor has been added making it easier to clean and top rope. .