Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: FFA- LeeHansche 9/1/17 (TR) 9/3/17 (Lead)
Page Views: 967 total · 12/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Sep 3, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Due to extremely persistent wetness this line has gone nearly unnoticed for decades. I however love a nice thin crack and I am also extremely persistent.

So I cleaned it out 2 years ago in hopes that it would dry out easier if it was clean. I removed moss, lichen, MGS (mysterious green slime) and a good amount of chossy rock. Though I came back regularly to check on it I started to think It would never dry. This past week however the unthinkable happened and the perma-wet crack enjoyed a whole week of dryness. I put in two session on it (the second being an alpine start to beat the coming rains and for I know another two years of wetness) and sent on my second lead attempt.

Most of the difficulty is neatly packaged in the first 15-20 feet. A devious v4/5 boulder problem. After that you get a good shake and some 5.10 climbing until the final bit up to and over the mantle move finish. There is an anchor just over the lip but I feel like an anchor would be helpful higher up and would encourage folks to be sure to top it out since the mantle is the redpoint crux. I just climbed up to the trees above and lowered off of a sling.

Good luck with the wetness but if it's dry and you like this sort of thing, GET AFTER IT!

Location Suggest change

Between The Good Book and The Horcrux there is a perfectly vertical blank wall with horizontal breaks. This route climbs the thin seam that splits the center of the wall.

Protection Suggest change

I used a Purple C3 precariously placed in a pod to protect the crux about 10 feet off the ground.
I placed 2 small-ish nuts side by side in the good rest hold after the crux. Then reached up to place a #4 stopper in the next good pod. Finally a #5 stopper that protects the upper crux. On the redpoint I ran it out all the way through the top out above the #5 then clipped one of the old anchor bolts before continuing all the way up to the trees.
A two ring bolt anchor has been added making it easier to clean and top rope. .

Photos

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