Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FFA- LeeHansche 9/1/17 (TR) 9/3/17 (Lead)
Page Views: 188 total · 11/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Sep 3, 2017
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Due to extremely persistent wetness this line has gone nearly unnoticed for decades. I however love a nice thin crack and I am also extremely persistent.

So I cleaned it out 2 years ago in hopes that it would dry out easier if it was clean. I removed moss, lichen, MGS (mysterious green slime) and a good amount of chossy rock. Though I came back regularly to check on it I started to think It would never dry. This past week however the unthinkable happened and the perma-wet crack enjoyed a whole week of dryness. I put in two session on it (the second being an alpine start to beat the coming rains and for I know another two years of wetness) and sent on my second lead attempt.

Most of the difficulty is neatly packaged in the first 15-20 feet. A devious v4/5 boulder problem. After that you get a good shake and some 5.10 climbing until the final bit up to and over the mantle move finish. There is an anchor just over the lip but I feel like an anchor would be helpful higher up and would encourage folks to be sure to top it out since the mantle is the redpoint crux. I just climbed up to the trees above and lowered off of a sling.

Good luck with the wetness but if it's dry and you like this sort of thing, GET AFTER IT!

Location

Between The Good Book and The Horcrux there is a perfectly vertical blank wall with horizontal breaks. This route climbs the thin seam that splits the center of the wall.

Protection

I used a Purple C3 precariously placed in a pod to protect the crux about 10 feet off the ground.
I placed 2 small-ish nuts side by side in the good rest hold after the crux. Then reached up to place a #4 stopper in the next good pod. Finally a #5 stopper that protects the upper crux. On the redpoint I ran it out all the way through the top out above the #5 then clipped one of the old anchor bolts before continuing all the way up to the trees.
I plan to install a better/higher anchor than the one that is there now.

Photos

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