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Routes in Holdout

19th Nervous Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beefeater T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Currey's Diagonal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eleven Cent Moon T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equilibrium T V10-11 8A
Existential Dilemma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning Sickness T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Narrow and Ugly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oslund's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pipeline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rainbow in the Dark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practice Aid Climb) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silver Surfer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Billy V0-1 4+
Up the Down Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Veggie Eater S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Very Narrow and Treesy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wide and Ugly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
William T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wright of Thick and Thin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Ben Boykin and Rob Kelman, July 2011
Page Views: 617 total, 8/month
Shared By: rob.calm on Jul 28, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This climb starts about 12 yards right of Morning Sickness in a wide opening with 4 cracks. Climb the middle 2 cracks as seen in the photograph. After this strenuous start, go about 60 feet to a shelf and belay. The second pitch starts in a wide chimney that after a strange move off a ledge narrows into a squeeze reminiscent of TedÂ’s Trot but distinctly narrower. The pitch ends with a nice finger crack leading to a belay on a wide ledge. The exit pitch is the right of 2 cracks, which are about 20 feet right of the end of p.2. The first 2 pitches are 7+; the exit pitch is 5.9.

Descend by scrambling right to the rappel bolts at the end of Bushwhack. Note: the rappel bolts above Arch Stanton are in disrepair. The climb was named in honor of William Badgett--a first ascentionist of Morning Sickness.

Protection

0.4-4 Camalots, small tricams. A #5 Camalot is helpful.

Photos

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