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Routes in Holdout

19th Nervous Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beefeater T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Currey's Diagonal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eleven Cent Moon T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equilibrium T V10-11 8A
Existential Dilemma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning Sickness T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Narrow and Ugly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oslund's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pipeline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rainbow in the Dark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practice Aid Climb) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silver Surfer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Billy V0-1 4+
Up the Down Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Veggie Eater S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Very Narrow and Treesy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wide and Ugly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
William T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wright of Thick and Thin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jeb Schenck, 1970s. FFA: Todd Skinner, early '80s
Page Views: 1,198 total, 16/month
Shared By: Petsfed on Oct 2, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is perhaps the most distinctive line on the Holdout's southeast face.

From an easy chimney start, jam and lieback up an ever steepening flake past bolts to a thin face finish and (as of September 2011) shiny new chains.

Location

The incredibly distinctive, right-arching flake on the southeast face of the Holdout. From the campground, follow trails past the dungeon, then follow climber's trail along the base of the southeast face. Rappel or lower from chains.

Protection

Hands and fingers for before, micro gear for between, and quickdraws on the bolts.

Photos

When I put this route up in the early '70s as an aid route, we had no clean gear. The pins as I recall, started off pretty good and progressively became horrid. So bad I was using multiple etriers for each foot to distribute my weight. Additionally, the crack was crumbing inside when the arch hangs out to the right. I used several beer or soda cans with small runners through them and smashed them into the crack. I think, but am not sure, I managed to place a small quarter inch bolt to get down. My nerves were shot, so didn't even look up. Cleaning wasn't problem. One just knocked out the first solid pins and simply load up on the rope and swing, the rest pulled. I think Paul's freeing it was decidedly a safer way to go. God help you if you're dumb enough to try aiding it! Oh, it was originally called Rejecter Ejector---since it was likely to spit you out. Apr 19, 2017
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
For sure great line, crack to face tricky moves are needed gain topout! Dec 10, 2016
Tom Kelley
  5.12b
Tom Kelley  
  5.12b
For more full disclosure, Skinner and Piana did this route to the end of the arch in the early '80s and named it "Arch Stanton." Back then it was a gear lead with stuff placed under the arch and there were no bolts above the arch at that time (it ended at the terminus of the arch).

Paul Piana placed the bolts above the arch in the undercling section (to reduce rope drag?), added bolts in the headwall, and finished the route to the top in the early '90s renaming it "Anhilator Blueprint." The route is still rated 5.11d, apparently due to Vedauwoo politics. I think the complete route is much harder. I've never had much trouble getting to the end of the arch, but that is where the fun begins.

As with Currey's, this climb involves a long traverse, and it is best to have a second who can follow it without incurring a lot of brain damage. Just the same, I highly recommend this route if you're in the area with an equally adept partner who is willing to flip for the lead. Feb 9, 2013
Petsfed
Laramie, WY
 
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
 
Full disclosure: I did not free this route. I attempted to aid it, and was not skilled enough to actually complete the route. However, it's a (mostly) bolted crack that can provide an interesting challenge if you're sick of crack climbing, and you're up to it. There's only 2 places on the entire climb that a free-climber might want some additional pro: at the very beginning, and between bolts 2 and 3.

As an aid climb, it has some pretty awkward positions to begin with, and apparently upon its very first ascent went at A5. Cleaning would suck; we down-aided rather than came in from the top.

Also, on history: an account of the first free ascent can be found in the beginning of Big Wall Climbing by Paul Piana, recounting how Skinner's acquisition of RPs allowed the route to be freed on clean gear. Piana later retrobolted the climb, and added the final bolts for the face-climbing finish. Oct 2, 2011