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Routes in Holdout

19th Nervous Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beefeater T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Currey's Diagonal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eleven Cent Moon T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equilibrium T V10-11 8A
Existential Dilemma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning Sickness T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Narrow and Ugly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oslund's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pipeline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rainbow in the Dark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practice Aid Climb) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silver Surfer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Billy V0-1 4+
Up the Down Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Veggie Eater S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Very Narrow and Treesy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wide and Ugly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
William T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wright of Thick and Thin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,774 total, 9/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 6, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Poke around through the woods to the left of Currey's Diagonal approximately 50 yards until finding a distinct, short, hand crack that leads to a ledge below a left-facing dihedral. One can scramble around to the left to avoid the short crack, although it is fun as a boulder problem or one piece pitch. The climb above follows the handcrack in the dihedral, the crux coming swiftly, followed by fun jamming that ends all to soon at the top. Set up and anchor, belay, and walk off to the left.

Protection

Moderate-sized (short pitches), rack heavy in the hand sized cams. No rap anchor.

Photos

Petsfed
Laramie, WY
Petsfed   Laramie, WY
I thought the first 5-10 feet were comparable to the first 5-10 feet of Nemo, and so 5.8 was fair. It eases significantly after that.

Compare also to Straight and Narrow and Satterfield's Crack. They all feel pretty comparable to me. May 8, 2017
Giulio Del Piccolo
El Jebel, CO
  5.8+
Giulio Del Piccolo   El Jebel, CO
  5.8+
This is a FINGER CRACK.

Felt hard for Vedauwoo 5.8, harder than the first pitch of Captain Nemo for example. May 8, 2017
JLV
San Francisco, CA
 
JLV   San Francisco, CA
 
Sketchy start if going from the right. Not much for protection. I went in from the left to the start of the finger crack. Didn't use anything bigger than a #2 though I'd suggest bringing one #3.
Great route but too short.
Rapped way over right (climber's right) above Currey's Diagonal. Sketchy and spicy getting to the rap station. There are other alternatives for rapping on either side of formation. Jul 19, 2014
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Arlo F Niederer   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
This is a finger crack, not a hand-sized crack. The largest cam I used leading was a #1 Camalot (red) at the top. #2 or #3 are useful for the belay, but smaller will work.

An awkward move gets to the start of the climb, and the crux are a few moves getting into the dihedral. Finger-sized cams or nuts for pro.

As the previous poster mentioned, rappel anchors about 10m to the right provide rapid descent. The rappel is 25m, and is above the climb Reading Raymond Chandler. Sep 11, 2012
Brad W.  
There are new(er) rap anchors to the climbers right(if one is looking at the route from the ground). Climb to the top and walk 25 yards uphill to the left of the giant boulder. On your right you will see a small cave-like passage. Squeeze through it and the chains will be on your left at chest level. A 60m rope will get you down. Aug 19, 2012
Jason Funk
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jason Funk   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Nice hand crack, wish it was longer. I agree with the previous comment and would not really recommend walking off the other side (NE) to the left unless you don't mind sliding down an easy offwidth. My partner on the way down sliced his hand up pretty bad at the very bottom when he slid out of the chimney and ended almost landing his head on a rock. Not the way he wanted to go- on Mother's Day. May 12, 2008
Fun route. Instead of walking off L, you can also walk about 40 feet to your right and rap off an anchor, coming down on the other side of the rock. 60 meter rope reaches easily. Sep 6, 2003