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Routes in Holdout

19th Nervous Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beefeater T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Currey's Diagonal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eleven Cent Moon T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equilibrium T V10-11 8A
Existential Dilemma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning Sickness T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Narrow and Ugly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oslund's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pipeline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rainbow in the Dark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practice Aid Climb) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silver Surfer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Billy V0-1 4+
Up the Down Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Veggie Eater S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Very Narrow and Treesy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wide and Ugly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
William T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wright of Thick and Thin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR
FA: Jeb Schenck, 1970s. FFA: Paul Piana and Todd Skinner
Page Views: 2,185 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 6, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

A nice route below and slightly [right] of the plum line below Currey's anchors. Follows a traversing, thin crack left, before a mantle move above to reach the first of two bolts. Balancy moves reach the final dihedral. Place secure small wires before blasting through the thin moves of the crux. An unprotected face TR variation (12a) climbs up a thin dihedral off the crescent moon flake at the base directly into the line.

Protection

This mixed route requires mostly small gear, small nuts, cams and clips two bolts. Shares anchor with Currey's Diagonal. The pin mentioned in the guide for the initial traverse is not present, although protection is manageable (TCUs and nuts).

Photos

The route was originally free and aid (5.8, A3+) done in mid-February--semester break I think around 1971 or 72. We used holes and "bat hooks" a couple of thin tied off blades at angles,and a rurp down low--which broke off a tiny flake when my second came up. The route was then called Witches Brass Bra, because it so darn cold. Paul later told me about it. It was obvious that it would go free even then, but it would be hard. Apr 19, 2017
Mark Rolofson
  5.11d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11d
Excellent climb. I have always placed overhead pro for the crux face moves near the finish. The left-facing dihedral involves 5.10 liebacking protected by RPs to where it blanks out & the crux moves are encountered. I have always pre-strung 2 wired stoppers together to have the added reach to place a #6-7 stopper in the bottom of the finger lock the crux ends at. Jan 5, 2017
peachy spohn  
 
Great route! The piton is gone, but it isn't necessary: a cam (#2 Metolius) and a small stopper can be used. I also placed a small stopper in the amazing, arching, super cool dihedral. Jun 5, 2014
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.11d
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.11d
I placed small stoppers before the crux moves instead of TCUs, because I didn't want to plug up any important finger locks. I had two very good stoppers about 6 inches apart to protect the hard moves. Your feet are above the gear at the desperate part, but the fall is very clean. This is a great pitch. Jun 29, 2008
Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
  5.11d
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
  5.11d
I did this back in the summer of 2001 with my buddy Scott Miller. Excellent climbing with a thrilling finish. Footwork is key. Sep 13, 2007
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
A green Alien can be finagled in just before the crux moves. Very aesthetic, very foot-work oriented. Apr 15, 2005
Just did this route this weekend and thought it was really enjoyable. There are actually three bolts that you clip and here is all you will need for pro. 1 yellow Alien, 1 red Alien and 1blue Metolius TCU. You need a little bit of go for it for the crux. Just remember that as with most climbing routes, the feet are really important. Sep 15, 2003