Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Rob Kelman and Eric Wright, 1993
Page Views: 519 total · 6/month
Shared By: tooTALLtim on Oct 27, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a nice, moderate, wide crack with a sprinkling of face and fingers.

P1: Squirm up the wide crack on the left side of the large gully. It ledges out a few times, but is interesting and fun. End on a ledge on the left, or, better, climb the face and belay on another big ledge. ~100-130 feet.

P2: Climb the short face (~10 feet) to a ledge, walk right to another wide crack, and hit the airstrip on top. ~50 feet.

P3: There are many choices, but the route standard takes the incipient crack in the back of a right-facing dihedral. You can also jump across the gully to the right to gain the rappel bolts of Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton as well.

Location

This is in a large gully, "22 yards" left of Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton.

Protection

Wide stuff, from hands to knees. If doing P3, bring small gear as well.

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R Sather
COLORADO
  5.7
R Sather   COLORADO
  5.7
My buddy and I did this route in 2 pitches. Linking the final pitches was maze-like, and I am not sure how well it would have protected a fall, but it made the whole process go a lot faster. If I remember correctly, we rappelled off the opposite side down Beef Eater. I thought this was a quality OW and was surprised to find that there was little written about in on MP. I think bringing either singles up to a six or bring 2 fives if you got em'. Six protect the opening OW well while still allowing one to stack, but it can also be protected with a five. A five is nice for some of the upper OW before one reaches the belay of the first pitch. The first time I did this route I had one five that I used in the opening section and was doing some climbing above a four and nearly wanted to puke! Upon having to do it a second time to rescue a piece of fallen gear, I used a six down low and the five towards the top made this climb seem more like 5.7. This great climb to get comfortable with some heel to toe action. This is a clean and quality moderate OW. Do it!!! Nov 4, 2014