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Routes in Holdout

19th Nervous Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beefeater T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Currey's Diagonal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eleven Cent Moon T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equilibrium T V10-11 8A
Existential Dilemma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning Sickness T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Narrow and Ugly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oslund's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pipeline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rainbow in the Dark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practice Aid Climb) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silver Surfer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Billy V0-1 4+
Up the Down Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Veggie Eater S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Very Narrow and Treesy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wide and Ugly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
William T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wright of Thick and Thin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Piana, Cowan (1986) for FBJ... Mandala unknown?
Page Views: 853 total, 6/month
Shared By: nolteboy on Jul 16, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Although rarely traveled, this line's obscurity is undeserved. Interesting moves, adequate but slightly spicy protection, and a super cool exit... Start as for Arch Stanton, off of a large boulder. Power up past the overlap, then step left into the dihedral and stem up past the bottoming crack. When Mandala breaks right, place gear and head out over the big empty.

Location

On the SE side of Holdout. Start as for Arch Stanton (& if you can't find Arch Stanton, go back to the truck), Gear anchor or slung boulders on top, then shimmy thru the narrow corridor to the NE (i.e. to the right, as you top out on the route) and find cold shuts atop Bushwhack.

Protection

Although given R ratings in the current spate of guidebooks, protection is actually pretty dang good. Even after passing the overlap of Arch Stanton, two small but solid placements appear- a #7-ish stopper followed by a green Alien/blue TCU. After a couple of spooky stemming moves, a #2 Camalot can be gratefully placed. Rack should include stoppers, doubles of smallish stuff, and a couple of hand-sized pieces for the middle section after the bottoming crack. Nothing bigger, except maybe for the anchor on top?

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