Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Piana, Cowan (1986) for FBJ... Mandala unknown?
Page Views: 908 total · 6/month
Shared By: nolteboy on Jul 16, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Although rarely traveled, this line's obscurity is undeserved. Interesting moves, adequate but slightly spicy protection, and a super cool exit... Start as for Arch Stanton, off of a large boulder. Power up past the overlap, then step left into the dihedral and stem up past the bottoming crack. When Mandala breaks right, place gear and head out over the big empty.

Location

On the SE side of Holdout. Start as for Arch Stanton (& if you can't find Arch Stanton, go back to the truck), Gear anchor or slung boulders on top, then shimmy thru the narrow corridor to the NE (i.e. to the right, as you top out on the route) and find cold shuts atop Bushwhack.

Protection

Although given R ratings in the current spate of guidebooks, protection is actually pretty dang good. Even after passing the overlap of Arch Stanton, two small but solid placements appear- a #7-ish stopper followed by a green Alien/blue TCU. After a couple of spooky stemming moves, a #2 Camalot can be gratefully placed. Rack should include stoppers, doubles of smallish stuff, and a couple of hand-sized pieces for the middle section after the bottoming crack. Nothing bigger, except maybe for the anchor on top?

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