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Routes in Holdout

19th Nervous Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beefeater T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Currey's Diagonal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eleven Cent Moon T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equilibrium T V10-11 8A
Existential Dilemma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning Sickness T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Narrow and Ugly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oslund's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pipeline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rainbow in the Dark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practice Aid Climb) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silver Surfer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Billy V0-1 4+
Up the Down Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Veggie Eater S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Very Narrow and Treesy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wide and Ugly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
William T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wright of Thick and Thin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: unknown, FFA: Steve Matous & Doug Cairns, 1974 or '75.
Page Views: 4,783 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 6, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Currey's Diagonal is the right-leaning crack with tree at 30 feet in the middle of the NW face of the Holdout. The crux comes in the layback moves with thin feet before reaching the tree. Handsized cracks and more layaways before the rap anchor. Eliminate the use of the tree as handhold to increase the pump! Technical and pumpy.

Protection

Standard rack emphasizing the small (TCUs and RPs) and medium gear. Several fixed pins and small tree to sling on the route. 2 bolt rap anchor at the top.

Photos

TBD
TBD  
Absolute must do in this area. Great and unique climb, very aesthetic. Two fixed pis in the thin section before the tree, the rest is gear. Jul 3, 2002
This is really strange, just browsing this site, checking out a bunch of my favorites and what do I find? A picture of me half way up this climb. Stacy have you been stalking me again? John Oct 21, 2002
As of 7-14-04 the hangers were missing from the anchor bolts. Same with many, if not all, climbs on Holdout. Unknown at this point as to why. Jul 14, 2004
willem  
As of last weekend. Two nice chains at the anchor. I am glad I didnt' have the fortune of the ascentionist in the previous comments! Sep 15, 2004
Stephen Marsh
Thornton, CO
Stephen Marsh   Thornton, CO
This is a lot trickier than it looks from the ground. If you're not solid on 10s, then you better not mind a swinging fall if you blow it getting to the tree. Not dangerous just exciting. I almost blew it grabbing for the tree, then I gave it a big hug. Props to anyone who can sling that and keep going w/o using it! The climbing keeps your attention even after the tree. And the very last section is kinda strange. A unique Vedauwoo classic. Oct 4, 2007
Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart"  
  5.10b/c
Who was Currey ? I'm sure in my vast collection of moth eaten guidebooks dating back to '72 when I first started climbing at the 'Woo, if they're still readable, buried in my crawlspace, there is the info.

Meanwhile, who got the FFA? I'm sure Layne's book had the info, but I can't find it in my bookcase.

I vividly recall my onsight lead of it back in '76, just after leading "Finally" when our "crew" from CSU spent a weekend prior to the start of my last fall semester there. Jan 6, 2009
I did the FFA in 1974 or '75 with Doug Cairns following. Oct 12, 2010
Tommy Ormond
Eldorado Springs, CO
Tommy Ormond   Eldorado Springs, CO
Just made my first trip to the Woo. This was my first route there. I will be going back next weekend. And the weekend after that. And after that.... Just need to get a pair of brass knuckles and my wide crack rack will be complete. Aug 1, 2011
Tom Kelley
  5.10c/d
Tom Kelley  
  5.10c/d
An atypical Voo route. I agree wholeheartedly with the above comments that Currey's Diagonal is a riot and should be done by anyone who can get to the base of the climb.

Be kind to your second. The thrills and anguish of cleaning this route are not trivial. I also think most "Out-of-Towners" will agree that it would net a 5.10+ rating in many other climbing areas. Feb 9, 2013
Ryan Kempf
Boulder, CO
 
Ryan Kempf   Boulder, CO
 
Beautifully sandbagged and spicy, 10+ at any other crag. The route is heads up as you pull the crux pretty low on the route over a small C3 and the pins.... Awesome movement, tricky gear, and terrible feet. Truly a must do if it's in your pay grade. Jun 24, 2014
Drew Thayer
Denver, CO
Drew Thayer   Denver, CO
As said, a fantastic, exciting, and consistently engaging route. Do not fear the fall moving to the tree; the second piton has passed a proper field test if you know what I mean. Climb it! Apr 2, 2015
Matt.H Haron
  5.10a/b
Matt.H Haron  
  5.10a/b
I don't think this is sandbagged. Actually felt right on par to be honest, and super soft for Vedauwoo. Do it and just go for it. Have partner clean it on TR. Gear is good, and honestly if you are climbing 5.10 on gear, it's great. Easier than some 10a's in Boulder Canyon. Jun 16, 2015
gumbotron
Denver, CO
gumbotron   Denver, CO
Beta alert: a purple C3 placed after the second pin is solid and a good backup. It is hard to place though, get that thing ready beforehand. Jun 20, 2016
Mark Rolofson
  5.10c/d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.10c/d
Currey's Diagonal is one of a kind. There are very few climbs like this one. One of the best trad pitches anywhere, especially if you like thin seam cracks that require face climbing moves. You've got to love Vedauwoo ratings. I first climbed this route in 1980 when there were 4 fixed pitons before the tree. I last climbed it in 2010 with 2 pitons remaining but found great gear with small Aliens & RPs. I have never considered this route to be only .10b & have felt it was .10+. Jan 5, 2017

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