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Routes in Holdout

19th Nervous Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beefeater T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Currey's Diagonal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eleven Cent Moon T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equilibrium T V10-11 8A
Existential Dilemma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning Sickness T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Narrow and Ugly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oslund's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pipeline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rainbow in the Dark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practice Aid Climb) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silver Surfer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Billy V0-1 4+
Up the Down Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Veggie Eater S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Very Narrow and Treesy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wide and Ugly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
William T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wright of Thick and Thin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,982 total, 50/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 6, 2001
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


110 Opinions

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

One of those love it or hate it lines, certainly love until you fall off. An interesting 'approach' pitch starts at the right side of the NW face. Climb up some face holds before reaching a right-facing dihedral capped by a significant roof. Climb under this roof, tougher perhaps for the tall and lank as the decent feet are only 2 feet below the handjams, to the right and around the corner (5.9), belay above the roof back to the left on a spacious ledge.

Now, the serious fun begins. Climb the hand crack through some kinks, before it straightens out, heads steeper, and thins from hands to rattly fingers. Inconceivably wonderful.

Protection

Standard rack to 3 inches, heavy on the 1 to 2 inch variety. Double cams in the #1 to #2 friend variety aid in the swift ascent typically needed on the second pitch. Bolted rap anchor at the top.
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
Horrendously hand-size dependent. As such, perhaps the 5.10b crux of my life (with #3 sized hands).

I did not enjoy this climb as much as I should have. Jun 16, 2015
WadeM
Golden, Co
WadeM   Golden, Co
First pitch is a good warm up for Captain Nemo, and the second pitch is a good warm-up for Spectreman. Jun 23, 2014
slim

  5.10b
slim    
  5.10b
5'11" isn't tall :) Jun 4, 2014
bart cubrich 1
  5.10b
bart cubrich 1  
  5.10b
I agree, p1 was is really cool and not as bad for tall people as it was made out to be (I'm 5'11"). Jun 3, 2014
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
Want the super-secret beta for pitch one? Go sport climbing and learn to high step!

Both pitches of this climb are excellent. Aug 30, 2012
Cam Reade  
 
Bring a couple of extendable draws maybe 3 total. Only gear needed is doubles from red Alien to #2 Camalot and a couple of big wires for the belay station on the 2nd. My rack is miss matched, so sorry if this doesn't help you with sizes. Plus one yellow Alien. Sep 27, 2010
poundit14
Laramie, WY
  5.10b
poundit14   Laramie, WY
  5.10b
THIS IS ONE GREAT CLIMB! The gear is great on it and the jams are good. It is splitter and flaring, it is classic Vedauwoo climbing. It is all about gunning for the rests and feeling the exposure! Jun 13, 2009
Stephen Marsh
Thornton, CO
Stephen Marsh   Thornton, CO
Terrific climb, makes me love the Voo all the more. P1 was enjoyable and not to be missed, and I'm 6'. Get the rests where you can before the crux finish on P2 and then gun for the top. Oct 4, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.10c
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.10c
Don't miss out on the first pitch. It is a lot of fun, even if you are tall. There are good jams the whole length of the roof, unlike P2 of Captain Nemo.

The second pitch is hand size dependent. Add a couple letter grades, if you are wearing fat sweaty tape gloves. Classic pitch.... Jul 9, 2007
John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
10.14.06, A. Wiedmann led the route. Thought P2 was grand--steep, strenuous, with spicy off-fingers near the top. Found that some left-shoulder friction was helpful in getting some additional power on the insecure stuff. Oct 16, 2006
Jammer,
Quality and grade, being highly subjective, probably take up over half of the discussion on this site. Funny, most of the people that I've talked to about the pitch (including Rob) enjoy it. I apologize if it sounded like I came off as a "sandbagging ahole," definitely not my intention. The pitch offers a good experience, as the gear is bomber and climbing unique. I concur that we are agreeing to disagree. I did like your sarcasm though.
Jul 20, 2006
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Brian,

I'm just trying to direct people to what routes I personally find enjoyable and worthwhile, which is of course a matter of opinion. The above post is in jest and sarcasm, and I'm a little bummed you couldn't see that. I was hoping people would get a good laugh if nothing else, and I did not intend that laugh to be at your expense. Most people I talk to, actually everyone but you and Rob Kelman, have not enjoyed the first pitch. I actually figured you were being a sandbagging ahole- "go do that one, it's real good". I think Rob recommends it for the resons I stated. I gather that from some words regarding route quality in the introduction of "Heel and Toe". I formally apologize if my words struck a cord with you. I assume we can agree to disagree about the quality of the first pitch. I'm glad you enjoy the first pitch.

Just to fill everyone in on the quote:

"Good judgment comes from experience, and experience often comes from...bad judgment." -RM Brown Jul 19, 2006
"Yeah, fun thought provoking climbing. Fun pontificating about the coefficient of friction between their fingers and the greasy poo smeared rock, thinking about how they would think if they didn't have a head. All the time wishing they had the legs of a gorilla so they could stand on those high smears without smashing their butt against the roof. Fun. It's worth doing once though."

Jammer,
Reminds me of a quote about whining. I'm sorry you don't enjoy the first pitch of the route. I enjoyed being able to find a rest in the most unique of positions, back against the roof while feet on smears. I also thoroughly enjoyed the climbing. Thus, when I repeat the route, I still do that pitch. Jul 19, 2006
JNE
 
JNE  
 
"Pitch one offers fun, thought-provoking climbing. Yes, it can easily be avoided, but why? The tall and lanky can have fun with it as well."

Yeah, fun thought provoking climbing. Fun pontificating about the coefficient of friction between their fingers and the greasy poo smeared rock, thinking about how they would think if they didn't have a head. All the time wishing they had the legs of a gorilla so they could stand on those high smears without smashing their butt against the roof. Fun. It's worth doing once though. Reminds me of a quote about developing good judgment.

The 2nd pitch isn't THE best 10 at Vedauwoo, but ONE of them. Jul 18, 2006
Pitch one offers fun, thought-provoking climbing. Yes, it can easily be avoided, but why? The tall and lanky can have fun with it as well. Jul 18, 2006
Umph!
5.10c
Umph!  
5.10c
My apologies. . . . It is true, the first pitch holds the contempt behind my bitch session. It looks really cool, but I just couldn't get in the groove and hated every bit of it (however, I am tall, and do have a head. . .). The second pitch is a fine finger to thin hand crack, although NOT the best in the 'Woo, and DOES require taping for good friction (yes, I did climb it in 90 degree heat) - at least for my abilities, which are nothing to many. Jul 17, 2006
JNE
 
JNE  
 
The second pitch of this climb isn't greasy. You can avoid the awkward first pitch by traversing in from the right along a ledge, which is exposed and as a result you may want to rope up. I would recommend doing it this way unless you enjoy crunchy awkward moves that would be easier if you didn't have a head. I imagine Cameron's comments are mostly in regard to the first pitch. I can't imagine anyone not enjoying the second pitch for any other reason than length snobbery. It's absolutely spectacular and definitely one of the best 10's at Vedauwoo. May 13, 2006
Primo. 10a-ish for those with thin hands, 10c-ish for those with meaties. Not nearly as greasy as Cameron would have you believe, but probably not the best route in 90 degree sun. Apr 27, 2006
Umph!
5.10c
Umph!  
5.10c
Horrendous. Greaseville. Squatville. Excellent pro. I'm sure the first few years of ascents were wonderful (even for lanky bastards like me) - but not no mo'! Taping is a MUST if you want any friction whatsoever - less you have small hands and tips. It's a classic alright. . . . Tape up. Jul 18, 2005
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.10c
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.10c
Mega-classic is right! Maybe my favorite 10 at Vedauwoo. Apr 20, 2005
nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO
 
nolteboy   Fort Collins, CO
 
Vedauwoo Mega Classic - if only pitch two were twice as long! Pitch one is a soft man's version of Captian Nemo's 2nd pitch. Apr 18, 2005
Ben F
Benfield, Kolorado
Ben F   Benfield, Kolorado
The crux pitch is short enough where probably only double #2.5 Friends/#1 Camalots are needed, unless you are really a seamstress. One of these is placed in the diagonal crack that leads to the upper dihedral section. The upper dihedral (crux) portion continually narrows, so you just keep dumping the next smallest piece as you ascend.

This good and non-sandbagged 10- provides nice relief from doing fatties that proliferate Vedauwoo. Sep 20, 2001