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Routes in Holdout

19th Nervous Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beefeater T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Currey's Diagonal T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eleven Cent Moon T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equilibrium T V10-11 8A
Existential Dilemma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning Sickness T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Narrow and Ugly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oslund's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pipeline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rainbow in the Dark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practice Aid Climb) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silver Surfer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Billy V0-1 4+
Up the Down Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Veggie Eater S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Very Narrow and Treesy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wide and Ugly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
William T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wright of Thick and Thin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Michael Friedrichs and Dan Moe
Page Views: 970 total, 8/month
Shared By: kevin fox on Jun 4, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a right-trending, overhanging, roof crack. It goes from big hands to fists to wide! If you have ape arms, you can reach further in to get solid jams. The crux is pulling around corner.

Protection

Bring from #2 Camalot at the start and everything to #5 Camalot.

Photos

I agree, I like this route a lot, but I think the climb is pretty easy compared with a lot of Vedauwoo 11s. Basically 5.8 or 5.9 til the crux, on or two 5.11 moves, then 5.6. Oct 30, 2014
Tom Kelley
  5.10
Tom Kelley  
  5.10
Looks like I'm in the minority here, but for Vedauwoo, I've always felt this climb is overrated. Unpleasant to be sure, but overated. On a positive note, the gear is always overhead. Feb 9, 2013
slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
This one makes Horn's Mother feel like 5.9. Similar to Right Torpedo Tube, IMO. Way harder than it looks. Jul 14, 2009
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11b
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11b
Just climbed this route yesterday and I thought it was great! It starts out with nice easy hand jams and then quickly widens to strenuous fists and bigger. At the crux, I had my right arm so deep in the crack that my face was pressed up against bottom of the roof.

From the deep right jam, I somehow managed to work my right foot up and right until it was higher than the rest of my body and toe hooked a dihedral way out right. I was then able to get an ok fist jam with my left hand and slowly worked right until I could grab the same dihedral with my right hand and pull myself into it. Wild! Sep 15, 2008