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Routes in Holdout

19th Nervous Breakdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beefeater T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bushwhack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Currey's Diagonal T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eleven Cent Moon T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Equilibrium T V10-11 8A
Existential Dilemma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Morning Sickness T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Narrow and Ugly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oslund's Delight T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pipeline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rainbow in the Dark T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practice Aid Climb) T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Silver Surfer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Uncle Billy V0-1 4+
Up the Down Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Veggie Eater S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Very Narrow and Treesy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wide and Ugly T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
William T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wright of Thick and Thin T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Between the main area and the Nautilus lies the Holdout, the closest a formation at Vedauwoo gets to rectangular. Although this formation has fewer routes than the Main Area or the Nautilus the high concentration of classic lines make for a mandatory visit. Mostly traditional lines, although a few high grade sport and mixed routes can be found. Classics include Arch Stanton (5.11d) on the SE side (lots of sun side) to Oslund's Delight (5.8), Currey's Diagnol (5.10b), Eleven Cent Moon (5.11d), Silver Surfer (5.9), Pipeline (5.12a) and the incomparable Beefeater (5.10b) on the NW side (late day sun).

Getting There

Easiest approach is via the campground. One can park at the lot outside the main area and walk into the park and through the campground finding trails that lead to the extreme southern end of the Holdout, continue down and left to the NW face, or up and right to reach the SE face.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Holdout

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
Morning Sickness
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Narrow and Ugly
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 46
Oslund's Delight
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Existential Dilemma
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
Silver Surfer
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 10
19th Nervous Breakdown
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Veggie Eater
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 98
Beefeater
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 85
Currey's Diagonal
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Wide and Ugly
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 5
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 37
Eleven Cent Moon
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Reading Raymond Chandler (aka Practic…
Trad, TR
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Pipeline
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Rejecter Ejector aka Arch Stanton
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Morning Sickness
 4
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 3 pitches
Narrow and Ugly
 11
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Oslund's Delight
 46
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Existential Dilemma
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Silver Surfer
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
19th Nervous Breakdown
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Veggie Eater
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Beefeater
 98
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Currey's Diagonal
 85
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wide and Ugly
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Flaming Blue Jesus to Mandala
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Eleven Cent Moon
 37
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Reading Raymond Chandler (a…
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Pipeline
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rejecter Ejector aka Arch S…
 7
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Holdout »

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Photos

I was climbing at the Holdout June 12, 2004. Someone (a lower form of life) stole all the Hangers from the top of all the climbs. We had to down climb a corner on the North-East end of the formation. Jun 15, 2004
I just wanted to say thanks to the cheap asshole who stole the hangers of all the anchors. Jul 10, 2004
JNE
JNE  
Just for clarification, most, if not all, the anchors have been replaced. May 13, 2006
KateC  
I was out there last week, and there was one cold shut on the anchors for Bushwhack (or Narrow and Ugly or Wide and Ugly...). Not that I recommend hanging your life on a single piece, but the bolts are in great shape and we had no problem rapping off the one cold shut.

Please don't take it off, who ever is doing that.

Also, I wanted to add that it looks like the route labeling for the north end of the southeast face is a little off in the big red guidebook. Narrow and Ugly in the guidebook appears to point to a very thin seam which is NOT 5.8. The hand crack just to the right of it (which is un-labled in the book) is a nice 5.8.

Also, to get to these climbs, head up to the right side of the big ledge and scramble up a narrow gully (as described in the book). The left side of the ledge is a blank face. Jun 12, 2008
Ben Boykin
Cheyenne, WY
Ben Boykin   Cheyenne, WY
Current anchor situation, July 2011: NW Face: Still a good rap station atop "Beefeater". I haven't checked for the rap stations which are supposed to be above "Mad Cow Disease," "Pipeline," or "Currey's Diagonal." SE face: Slightly swiveling coldshuts atop the shared finish of "Wide & Ugly"/"Narrow & Ugly"/"Bushwack." Atop "Arch Stanton," a rusty chain and a hangerless buttonhead only. I did not check for slings or bolts atop "Flaming Blue Jesus." The rap stations I checked are all one-rope rappels (50-60 meter... 'go long,' like the QB says). Jul 26, 2011

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