Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Aaron Huey, 2009
Page Views: 1,231 total · 14/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 19, 2011 with updates from Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


84 Opinions

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Description

A very good climb, somehow overlooked for a long time. This is a break from the good, but standard fare of the area, climbing up a seam of intermittent cracks on strange cling and side-pulls rather than pockets and edges. The change is a good one, producing a great climb.
Step up and left and pass a single bolt, climbing upwards and slightly left past 2 more bolts. Between bolts #2 and #3 head strongly left into a shallow intermittent crack and finally some pockets, pass several more bolts. Climb more or less directly up this crack feature for 50+ more feet to a good anchor.

Location

This route is around onto the E/NE-facing sidewall of Slavery Wall and climbs up and left into a very apparent finger-crack like system, onward on the right past a trail of darker stone, and to a fixed anchor.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

AlexGreen
  5.11-
AlexGreen  
  5.11-
There is a chockstone jug in the crack near the last bolt that was marked with an "X" when I climbed this. I didn't test it, but assumed the worst and avoided it entirely (hands and feet). It seems like sort of a "thank god" jug near the end of the route, but if you skip this hold (or if it pulls out in the future) the top half is definitely more sustained. Be careful! Sep 15, 2015
Alexander Stathis
Athens, GA
 
Alexander Stathis   Athens, GA
 
I pulled on the chockstone and stepped on it. I was careful not to yard on it, but it seemed solid enough while I was using it. Given how long ago Alex commented on it, my guess is that it's not going anywhere for a while as long as people are tender with it. Aug 17, 2016
seanmo63
  5.10
seanmo63  
  5.10
One of ten sleeps best warm ups Sep 29, 2017