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Routes in Slavery Wall

40 Acres and A Mule S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Abolitionist S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Burden of Immortality, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Calm Like A Bomb S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Colors of Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Prince Abdullah S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
EKV: Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Emancipation S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Happiness in Slavery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Head Like a Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart, Balls and Swagger S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Jack- A-Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackabite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kablamo! S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mommas Mental Medication S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Number One Enemy (AKA: Popsicle Sandwich) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Papa Knows Best S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
School's Out S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Screaming Night Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shake Your Money Maker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strut Your Funky Stuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Superfly S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wagon Wheel of Death S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Aaron Huey, 2009
Page Views: 1,213 total · 14/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 19, 2011 with updates from Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Description

A very good climb, somehow overlooked for a long time. This is a break from the good, but standard fare of the area, climbing up a seam of intermittent cracks on strange cling and side-pulls rather than pockets and edges. The change is a good one, producing a great climb.
Step up and left and pass a single bolt, climbing upwards and slightly left past 2 more bolts. Between bolts #2 and #3 head strongly left into a shallow intermittent crack and finally some pockets, pass several more bolts. Climb more or less directly up this crack feature for 50+ more feet to a good anchor.

Location

This route is around onto the E/NE-facing sidewall of Slavery Wall and climbs up and left into a very apparent finger-crack like system, onward on the right past a trail of darker stone, and to a fixed anchor.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

AlexGreen
  5.11-
AlexGreen  
  5.11-
There is a chockstone jug in the crack near the last bolt that was marked with an "X" when I climbed this. I didn't test it, but assumed the worst and avoided it entirely (hands and feet). It seems like sort of a "thank god" jug near the end of the route, but if you skip this hold (or if it pulls out in the future) the top half is definitely more sustained. Be careful! Sep 15, 2015
Alexander Stathis
Athens, GA
 
Alexander Stathis   Athens, GA
 
I pulled on the chockstone and stepped on it. I was careful not to yard on it, but it seemed solid enough while I was using it. Given how long ago Alex commented on it, my guess is that it's not going anywhere for a while as long as people are tender with it. Aug 17, 2016
seanmo63
  5.10
seanmo63  
  5.10
One of ten sleeps best warm ups Sep 29, 2017

More About Number One Enemy (AKA: Popsicle Sandwich)

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