Type: Sport, 85 ft (26 m)
GPS: 44.13246, -107.25716
FA: Peter Groseth 2012
Page Views: 295 total · 9/month
Shared By: Mike Lewis on Aug 7, 2023
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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Description Suggest change

Climb Mama's Mental Medication (12a) to the anchors, then traverse right 10ft and finish on Papa Knows Best (12d). This route is rated 13a in LA's 2019 guidebook; compared to 13as in Rifle, Maple, and other areas, it seems to be noticeably easier; some of felt like EKV next door was harder. Some useful beta: to reduce drag, use longer quickdraws on Mama's Mental Medication, a long runner on one of the anchor bolts of Mama's Mental Medication, and a long runner on the first bolt that is clipped on Papa Knows Best after traversing over. The cruxes are the roof on Mama's MM, and a few moves high on Papa KB. The rock was a little crumbly in places as of 8/2023. 

Location Suggest change

Begin on Mama's Mental Medication to the anchors, traverse right, and finish on Papa Knows Best.

Protection Suggest change

11 bolts plus anchors.

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