| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| GPS: | 44.13246, -107.25716 |
| FA: | Peter Groseth 2012 |
| Page Views: | 295 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Lewis on Aug 7, 2023 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
Climb Mama's Mental Medication (12a) to the anchors, then traverse right 10ft and finish on Papa Knows Best (12d). This route is rated 13a in LA's 2019 guidebook; compared to 13as in Rifle, Maple, and other areas, it seems to be noticeably easier; some of felt like EKV next door was harder. Some useful beta: to reduce drag, use longer quickdraws on Mama's Mental Medication, a long runner on one of the anchor bolts of Mama's Mental Medication, and a long runner on the first bolt that is clipped on Papa Knows Best after traversing over. The cruxes are the roof on Mama's MM, and a few moves high on Papa KB. The rock was a little crumbly in places as of 8/2023.



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