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Routes in Slavery Wall

Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Burden of Immortality, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Calm Like A Bomb S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Colors of Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Prince Abdullah S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
EKV: Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Goldmember S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Happiness in Slavery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Head Like a Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart, Balls and Swagger S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Jack- A-Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackabite S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kablamo! S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mommas Mental Medication S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Number One Enemy (AKA: Popsicle Sandwich) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Papa Knows Best S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
School's Out S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Screaming Night Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shake Your Money Maker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strut Your Funky Stuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Superfly S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wagon Wheel of Death S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Aaron Huey, 1998
Page Views: 1,277 total, 9/month
Shared By: richard magill on Apr 27, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Do a tricky 11+ or 12- slab up to a good rest under a giant roof. Then crank out the roof on steadily shrinking holds. They start juggy, but they don't end that way!

Really great line and burly for sure.

Location

On the Slavery Wall, last time I checked this was the second from the left end of the wall. Not too hard to identify due to its slab to steep roof transition.

Protection

10 bolts to anchors

Photos

- No Photos -
lech
  5.12d
lech  
  5.12d
I found the slab to be all but impossible. The overhang to be off balance and thuggy. I would strongly recommend starting this one on schools out crack, but I am not a good slab climber. Jul 4, 2016
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
  5.12c
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
  5.12c
The location of this route is left of the crack that forms the intro to Schools Out. This is one of four routes that begin on the slab and transitions into steeper terrain above. Perhaps a better start is to go up the Schools Out crack then step left to join the left leaning finish of Night Hog, avoiding the unpleasantness of the techy slab climbing. This was Hueys 3rd route at the Mondo and a sneaky little test of shallow pocket strength right at the end. May 12, 2008
bwillem
the wasatch
bwillem   the wasatch
FA was Huey Apr 17, 2007