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Routes in Slavery Wall

Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Burden of Immortality, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Calm Like A Bomb S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Colors of Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Prince Abdullah S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
EKV: Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Goldmember S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Happiness in Slavery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Head Like a Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart, Balls and Swagger S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Jack- A-Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackabite S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kablamo! S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mommas Mental Medication S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Number One Enemy (AKA: Popsicle Sandwich) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Papa Knows Best S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
School's Out S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Screaming Night Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shake Your Money Maker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strut Your Funky Stuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Superfly S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wagon Wheel of Death S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Charlie Kardaleff
Page Views: 2,224 total, 19/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Jul 7, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

This is a long sustained route with lots of good stemming. Climb straight up to the left of a crack through a thin bulge and then get your stem on. Follow a broken up left angling crack/seam up steep rock to a crux bulge finish and the anchors.

Location

This route is located to the left of "Saudi Arabia Flake". The 2008 guide book says to start at this flake but a direct start has been added.

Protection

Lots of bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. I think there were 14 to 16 clips?

Photos

Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
 
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
 
Thanks for the FA info. I didn't think this route felt to hard if you stemmed your way up it, but maybe I was having a low gravity day. Sep 9, 2008
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
  5.11+
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
  5.11+
Another Kardalef Classic!! Maybe a wee bit harder than .11b as well. The warm up for Captain Insano. Aug 15, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
 
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
 
Anyone know who put this up? Jul 7, 2008