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Routes in Slavery Wall

40 Acres and A Mule S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Abolitionist S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Burden of Immortality, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Calm Like A Bomb S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Colors of Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Prince Abdullah S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
EKV: Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Emancipation S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Goldmember S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Happiness in Slavery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Head Like a Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart, Balls and Swagger S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Jack- A-Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackabite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Kablamo! S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mommas Mental Medication S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Number One Enemy (AKA: Popsicle Sandwich) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Papa Knows Best S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
School's Out S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Screaming Night Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shake Your Money Maker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strut Your Funky Stuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Superfly S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wagon Wheel of Death S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Charlie Kardaleff
Page Views: 2,468 total · 20/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Jul 7, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Description

This is a long sustained route with lots of good stemming. Climb straight up to the left of a crack through a thin bulge and then get your stem on. Follow a broken up left angling crack/seam up steep rock to a crux bulge finish and the anchors.

Location

This route is located to the left of "Saudi Arabia Flake". The 2008 guide book says to start at this flake but a direct start has been added.

Protection

Lots of bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. I think there were 14 to 16 clips?

Photos

Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
 
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
 
Anyone know who put this up? Jul 7, 2008
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
  5.11+
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
  5.11+
Another Kardalef Classic!! Maybe a wee bit harder than .11b as well. The warm up for Captain Insano. Aug 15, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
 
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
 
Thanks for the FA info. I didn't think this route felt to hard if you stemmed your way up it, but maybe I was having a low gravity day. Sep 9, 2008

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