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Routes in Slavery Wall

Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Burden of Immortality, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Calm Like A Bomb S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Colors of Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Prince Abdullah S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
EKV: Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Goldmember S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Happiness in Slavery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Head Like a Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart, Balls and Swagger S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Jack- A-Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackabite S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kablamo! S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mommas Mental Medication S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Number One Enemy (AKA: Popsicle Sandwich) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Papa Knows Best S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
School's Out S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Screaming Night Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shake Your Money Maker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strut Your Funky Stuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Superfly S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wagon Wheel of Death S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: FA Dan Miller 2001, equipped by Mike Snyder 2000
Page Views: 705 total, 6/month
Shared By: Mike Snyder on May 9, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Begin in the small cave and climb up into the crack. Chug up ever smaller features until the crack ends. Powerful moves through a pocket and a slopey rail lead to a cryptic 5.11 finish. Sustained steep (the same angle the whole way) and pretty long. Apparently a good route to onsight if you climb the grade. Easy to read?

Location

Between EKV .12c to the left and Crown Prince .12d to the right.

Protection

9 clips, sport anchor

Photos

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Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Overall a great route. Not as easy for an onsight as the description might mention with lack of chalk and traffic on the route. Super fun though. Probably about the same as EKV and Crown Prince on the difficultly scale but not quite as good. 4 stars in an an area surrounded by 5 star classics... Aug 17, 2016