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Routes in Slavery Wall

Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Burden of Immortality, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Calm Like A Bomb S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Colors of Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crown Prince Abdullah S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
EKV: Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Goldmember S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Happiness in Slavery S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Head Like a Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Heart, Balls and Swagger S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Jack- A-Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jackabite S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kablamo! S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mommas Mental Medication S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Number One Enemy (AKA: Popsicle Sandwich) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Papa Knows Best S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
School's Out S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Screaming Night Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shake Your Money Maker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Strut Your Funky Stuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Superfly S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wagon Wheel of Death S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport
FA: Huey
Page Views: 2,571 total, 20/month
Shared By: m.wendling on Aug 4, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

Brief crux after the crack section. Sweet climb.

Location

Left of Aunt Jemimah's and right of the prominent gold streak.

Protection

bolts

Photos

- No Photos -
danieljordan
Portland, OR
  5.13a
danieljordan   Portland, OR
  5.13a
Such a great route. Felt 13a to me - might be a height thing at the crux. Skipping the crux bolt on the go really helps, but definitely adds a bit of spice! Jun 7, 2017
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Incredible route and one of th best I have done in the canyon. Cruiser slab to overhanging jugs to long lock offs and positive pulls on awesome pockets and crimps. Ultra classic for sure. A touch harder than surrounding 12d's so I'd go 13a..... Aug 11, 2016
My son took a huge whip on this a couple of weeks ago when the hanger came off the bolt. The crux bolts just need to be replaced with Powers 5-piece so that the nuts don't loosen. Lock washer or not, wedge bolts aren't a good idea for crux bolts, especially if there is a likelihood of a lot of falls. Jul 21, 2015
Seth Finkelstein
Denver, CO
  5.13a
Seth Finkelstein   Denver, CO
  5.13a
I tightened a number of dangerously loose bolts and removed 4 extremely sun-bleached quickdraws from this route. If the draws are yours, send me an email and I'll get them back to you. The bolts lacked lock washers, so i would expect them to loosen over time, cuidado. Jul 20, 2015
Pat Mac
Tempe
  5.12+
Pat Mac   Tempe
  5.12+
Let me start off first by saying this thing is probably the coolest line I did at Ten Sleep for my first trip. Great rock climbing PERIOD.

Now this is only my opinion so take it at that. It felt like if you had good endurance and draws were hanging you could flash this. However, with that said I was feeling like I was going to send it second go and took me 2 more goes to thread the needle. Loved skipping the clip just after the JUG pocket made for some really really good rides! For me it felt like what it was graded honestly 12+/13-. It will be easier or harder depending on your style.

I agree with Scott W in that EKV felt much easier. And Bisquick was probably the easiest flash all trip I had. I flashed other 12b's that felt more difficult. Plus, I flashed Bisquick after red pointing Burden second go of the day. Regardless of what grade you give it. If you climb anywhere near 12c. GET ON THIS LINE! Favorite route for me this last trip. Jul 15, 2013
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.13-
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.13-
I found this route very finger size and height dependent. I had to use my pinky and ring finger for several pockets that everyone else I have watched try it use the A team. The crux can be done several different ways depending on your height as well and seems to change the difficulty a lot.

For me, very hard for 12d compared to any other 12d and 13as in the area, felt solid 13a. Crowned Prince Abdullah for example was far far easier for me than this thing, EKV, not even on the radar in difficulty compared to Burden. Aunt Jemimas Bisquick Thunderdome is laughably easy for me as well, I thought maybe 12a/b compared to Burden...so take your pick on the grading, it's all relative to your skill set. Grades are all over the map in Ten Sleep. Aug 9, 2012
Blake Cash
Chattanooga, TN
  5.12+
Blake Cash   Chattanooga, TN
  5.12+
12d...not 13a. Not the typical TS super technical style, a bit more powerful...

Either way, amazing route and worth getting on. Sep 20, 2011
i found this route also to be soft for the .13a grade. i did find it harder than "e.k.v." or "calm..." which i think are both benchmark for .12c's. use a pen and some white out and inflate or deflate the grade in your guidebook. has anyone onsighted or flashed this route? Nov 17, 2009
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
  5.13a
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
  5.13a
Of the handful of people I've talked to that have redpointed this route, all agree that it is .13a, albeit a soft one. Which begs the question is it harder than the other 12+ climbs on the wall. I don't think so. I can't do the crux move on Aunt Jemima .12d, nor have I sent Calm Like A Bomb .12d, which is an enduro route that I bolted and passed onto a friend for the FA. Yet it took just two goes to do The Burden. Hell, I have fallen off Screaming Night Hog .12c right at the end at least six times over the last 9 years. So I guess I'm not sure what this all means, maybe I'm just weak. May 12, 2008
Mike Snyder
Cody, WY
  5.13a
Mike Snyder   Cody, WY  
  5.13a
This route, all though quite long, has only 20 feet of serious climbing. A good 40+ feet of typical slavery slab climbing leads to hero jug haulin out the steep corner. When that peters out there is a .12a move to a great pocket to recompose for the crux. Im pretty sure Huey crimped ladder style up those shitty crimps, which seems like it could be .13a. I found a way around and was able to reach past half of this crimp ladder which seemed an easier way for me. Whatever. It should be mentioned that there is a tough clip before the crux that should be extended with a sling or second draw. Big ride potential for the onsighter. All in all a fine, tall and proud addition to this stellar wall. May 9, 2008