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Broken Promises
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 125
votes
Routes in Downpour Wall
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[Redacted] S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Abolitionist S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Bisquick Thunderdome S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Broken Promises S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Burden of Immortality, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cakewalk S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Calm Like A Bomb S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Colors of Heaven S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crown Prince Abdullah S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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EKV: Exo-atmospheric Kill Vehicle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Emancipation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Goldmember S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Happiness S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Head Like a Hole S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heart, Balls and Swagger S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Jack- A-Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Jackabite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Kablamo! S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mama Knows Best S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Mommas Mental Medication S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Number One Enemy (AKA: Popsicle Sandwich) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Papa Knows Best S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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School's Out S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Screaming Night Hog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shake Your Money Maker S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Strut Your Funky Stuff S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Superfly S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Wagon Wheel of Death S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Louie Anderson, 2017 |
| Page Views: | 2,039 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Brandon Tilton on Jul 15, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
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