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Routes in Cold Springs Dome

Magic Bag T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Makunaima T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Master Cylinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Post Modern Retro Classic S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snidely's Whiplash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tucker, Fitch, & Saum 1981
Page Views: 504 total, 6/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on May 1, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starting on the face right of Snidely's Whiplash, climb up 30' to the first of 3 bolts. A bit run out to the second bolt, then up and right to the third. Continue right beneath the small overhang and around the arete. Easy but runout climbing leads up to the big slopey ledge and 2 bolt anchor shared with Snidely's Whiplash.

In general, the bolts are about at your waist whenever the climbing gets thin.

A second pitch exists; it doesn't look that great, but I have not done it as the upper wall was swarming with a large beehive.

Location

Lower angled face immediately right of Makunaima Wall

Protection

3 bolts, placed on lead. 2 bolt rap anchor.

Rusted, ancient bolts were replaced with 1/2" X 4-1/2" 5-piece expansion units 05/2011

Photos

Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
I didn't lead it, but going directly above the last bolt and incrementally trending left is great climbing. The holds are all there, but it might be a bit harder than the lower portion. May 1, 2011