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Routes in Cold Springs Dome

Magic Bag T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Makunaima T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Master Cylinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Post Modern Retro Classic S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snidely's Whiplash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Hendriks & Callaway, 1983
Page Views: 586 total, 7/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Mar 6, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb a plumb line of huecos to a large roof midway up the face. Pro can be had at the start in a small right facing corner (#1 camalot) and in one or two of the small huecos above (creatively placed tricams, #2 camalot). With pro well below your feet, start climbing over the roof on large buckets on its right side. Clip the bolt and pull over the roof to a good stance with a second bolt. Slightly runout face climbing leads to the third and final bolt, and the belay ledge.

Location

Lower angled face immediately right of Makunaima Wall, and just left of the 3-bolt route Magic Bag (5.9).

Protection

A single #1 and #2 camalot, 3 bolts (3/8"). 2-bolt anchor at the ledge halfway up the face. Rap from bolts here with a single rope, or continue up wandering 5.7 terrain to the top.

Photos

Scott Scharfenberg
Santa Barbara, CA
5.7+ PG13
Scott Scharfenberg   Santa Barbara, CA
5.7+ PG13
Led this route on 10/20/2013. I didn't feel that the runout was desperate enough for an R rating. Sure, a fall would've resulted in some cheese grating, but that's true for all slab. I've certainly been more runout on more challenging slab (Revelation, at Suicide Rock) and it wasn't considered R-rated. Maybe I'm just crazy. I will clarify though--this ain't no sport route. If you're used to sport climbing, make sure your belayer is prepared to be sprayed with feces as you attempt this climb.

Pro was pretty much as-described... I think I placed a #2 or #3 C4 down low and shoved a #1 Link Cam into a decent pocket higher up before gaining the first bolt. A tricam probably would've been bomber in the pocket where I had my link cam. The bolts look old and rusty but actually feel very solid and there is a good chain to rap from at the anchor.

I find myself questioning the 5.8 rating... compared to other trad routes I've struggled and lurched my way up, this one felt more like 5.7 to me. Then again I'm tall and stretched high for a few moves, so maybe I just skipped the challenging beta.

My partner and I swung leads and continued up after the bolted anchor. He led through some really shitty rock to gain about 20' of awesome climbing, to the top where he slung a giant boulder for the anchor. At one time there were bolted anchors up there, but they've been chopped. The moves through the crappy rock were pretty awkward--I felt that it was harder than the first pitch... probably 5.8+. He placed a #2 and #3 C4 while pulling through that stuff, then back-cleaned the #3 because it was necessary to protect the good climbing. I forget if he placed anything else, but he said he wished he'd had a #0.75 C4 to help with the anchor. Oct 22, 2013