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Routes in Cold Springs Dome

Magic Bag T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Makunaima T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Master Cylinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Post Modern Retro Classic S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snidely's Whiplash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Hendriks & Kelley, May 1983
Page Views: 898 total · 11/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Mar 6, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start up easy and blocky terrain to the base of the roof/overhang. Place a few handsize pieces in the crack under the roof and pull over it by liebacking around its left side. Surprisingly steep and powerful for the grade. I used a knee-bar here. Shove in a #3 camalot above the roof, and climb up and right on face holds to the first of 3 bolts. Above the first bolt, climb left along a lieback past a streak of white bird-poo to a second bolt. From here, steep face climbing leads up and right past a third bolt to the top.

While clipping the bolts, imagine climbing the upper face without them as was done on the FA! The FA party later added the bolts on toprope to protect what had been a very long (groundfall!) runout

Location

North side of Cold Springs Dome, along the approach to Makunaima Wall. Descend by scrambing down 3rd class to the east.

Protection

Single rack of cams to 3", a few long slings, and 3 bolts (1/2") on the upper half. Build your own anchor; be creative.

Photos


 
Just climbed this yesterday... So glad that I was on top rope. Trundled one head sized block under the roof. Be very very very careful of what you pull on/step on. There is almost nowhere underneath for the belayer to hide and there were pieces ranging from baseball sized to beach ball sized that I tapped on and they were ready to come off. Also when pulling the roof I grabbed a transition crimp coming over and the silly thing crumbled sending me swinging and flailing.

With some traffic this would be a amazingly fun climb. Powerful and fun moves through the roof. May 16, 2012
3 ancient bolts replaced with 1/2" X 4-1/2" 5 piece expansion 05/2011 May 1, 2011

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