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Routes in Cold Springs Dome

Magic Bag T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Makunaima T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Master Cylinder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Post Modern Retro Classic S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snidely's Whiplash T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: FFA Mike Forkash and Alan Wolman
Page Views: 4,163 total, 33/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Jul 8, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start on steep jugs, gain a wide crack, climb past a potentially loose horn, then fire through a series of strenuous finger-locks to a small roof. Pull the roof into more burly finger-locks, then traverse off to the left to exit. If you feel bold, go straight up to finish on a difficult and run-out boulder problem which pushes the grade up to a 5.11d. Makunaima is rarely led and often top-roped.

Location

Obvious line up center face of the shaded cove on the North side of the crag. You can't miss this one.

Protection

Wide (#4 Camelot) to fingers. Doubles in fingers not a bad idea if you feel nervous.
Jack Hereford
Tucson, AZ
 
Jack Hereford   Tucson, AZ
 
For those interested the direct finish can be protected with a somewhat finicky red tricam in a pocket next to the big hueco before venturing into the top boulder problem. I feel like the other routes on this wall should totally be retrobolted. I've spent a lot of time up at cold springs lately and think the wasted potential for good clip ups is a bit of a travesty (especially in SB and our profound lack of tall rock!) Just my vote. Either way Makunaima is one of the best routes in the area and more people should get up there! Feels like the SB alpine Nov 14, 2015
The route goes on gear and should not be retro bolted. Jan 14, 2015
Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
Best route in Santa Barbara? Yes. Would anyone be opposed to me cleaning the flakes out of the upper crack section? May 14, 2012
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
 
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
 
Support! Apr 12, 2012

 
I know nothing about bolting (and can't climb hard enough anyways). But I can stand belay for someone if they wanted to work on it. Mar 20, 2012
Nick Sullens
Yosemite/ Bishop
Nick Sullens   Yosemite/ Bishop
Bolt it! I can help in early April. Mar 16, 2012
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
Trevor V.   Santa Barbara, Ca
Lets do it. Mar 15, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Okay, Steve put it out there!

I would love to retro-bolt that cliff. There, I said it. To be sure, I wouldn't slap bolts on Makunaima, but the other steep lines would be fantastically fun to lead. What is now an obscure TR crag with one really good hard lead could be, as Steve put it, the best sport crag in town.

Any dissenters? Supporters? Mar 15, 2012
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Hahaha. Hey Orlando! I didn't rate it that. It was consensus. 11+ or 12a; what's the difference?

Lots of great routes and varations on this wall. Unfortunately they're all topropes as we had the crag wired and bolts would slow things down. If someone wants to lead it seems like now's the time to get that going. As Brigg's once said, "there's no glory in it" but, I dunno, not finding much glory in anything I've bolted and there would be some great climbing in it. Someone should retro the cliff as it would be one of the best climbing areas in SB for sure. Mar 15, 2012
The "loose horn" used to be loose, before someone went overboard with the glue. Years ago you could get it to loudly crack. AFAIK it has been stable for years.

I'd agree with Kai that the finish is more like 12a. For years it was rated that until some guide came out. I think it's a case of folks top-roping the crap out of it, then downrating it. Oct 10, 2011
the ratio of leads/TRs this sees is small - that may be the most accurate way to say it. no high end crack skills required. I would give the direct finish 12a for sure - bouldery. Jan 18, 2010
I used to toprope this before I was into placing gear about 5 years ago. I just hiked to it sans partner today just to see what it looked like. Clippers no longer needed for the approach of course, since the fire. The route looks the same..the horn is still there. Is it really loose? I was thinking that the concern was probably that someone would sling it for pro and take a big whipper, but it seems you could easily get other gear in instead? Guess I will just go toprope it again and take a look. Jan 2, 2010
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
 
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
 
Amazing route! Well worth the modest but strenuous hike (if you're spoiled by the likes of the Nose approach). Thought I'd clarify the gear beta. Smallest cam: .4 BD or yellow TCU. Biggest cam: you can place a new #4 BD, or could get by with #3. Probably want doubles of most of these sizes unless you have it wired. 3 bolts at the top, so take one or two long cords for the TR. Aug 11, 2009
Its a sweet route. However with soft sandstone and a "loose horn" save the lead for a route that gets more sun and has better rock. Keep it clean and bring some clippers to help maintain the trail. Apr 2, 2009
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
I don't know about "few" leads. It's been led a ton. It's just that the wall has about 10 routes across it and most of the locals have (or maybe had) it wired, so running laps was the general activity. These days it's a lot quieter up there. Great wall, though. Jul 30, 2008