No Glory
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Shaun Reed, Dave Meyer, Becca Vincent |
Page Views: | 414 total · 19/month |
Shared By: | Shaun Reed on Mar 1, 2022 |
Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Climb the bolted slab to the left of Snidely's Whiplash through a small roof, then cut left below the prominent overhanging arete. Climb up to a jug on the left side of the arete (crux), then follow huecos up and right, staying on the right side of the arete. Pull onto a ledge then up easy terrain to a two bolt anchor with fixed carabiners.
This may have been toproped before, but it was not found in any guide book. The name comes from a comment by Steve Edwards for Makunaima where he gives his blessing to add bolts to the old toprope routes near Makunaima. He adds the caveat that there would be no glory in it. He's probably right, but it made me laugh.
The route was established ground up, on lead, no glory and all. :)
0 Comments