Makunaima Direct
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | FA - Brent Hawks 1980 |
Page Views: | 187 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | jake w on Mar 8, 2023 |
Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
NOTE - the Direct broke at some point between 2017-2020. This route now requires a slightly harder V4/5-ish boulder problem that is well protected with a .75 (green camalot or similar) placed in a horizontal pocket. This piece is at your waist to knees area while executing the boulder problem.
Makunaima Direct is the obvious variation after the crux roof pull on the regular Makunaima. Instead of breaking left of hueco jugs after the awkward crack rest, place a bomber piece and bust a fun and dynamic V4ish boulder problem to hand crack where you can place another piece before topping out. This is possibly the best, and hardest all-gear protected route on the Central Coast. Give it a go on top-rope at the very least!
On the grade- Similar to other routes on the wall, because the wall is so featured, you can easily climb in to juggy terrain up and right of the horzontal cam placement. You'll know your doing this if you could easily clip the 2nd to last draw of Kneeanderthal. Shaun and I did this variation one night and it probably reduces the grade to 11d?
Beta Video (spoiler alert…) - youtube.com/shorts/ZKdRaaLX…
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