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Routes in Child Free Zone (aka Parkway Crags)

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Loose Goose? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Child Abuse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cool Thing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fergus Traverse V1 5
Hairball T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Mohare Eclaire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mousetrap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mystified Monkey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Off Guard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Parental Abuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power and Lies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power and Lies Trad Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puzzled Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rafiki S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rodent, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scream Amy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skin Deep S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 3 (Rat Race?) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown L S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Q S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Rib S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Uomama bin Rotten TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Dan Hare, Mo Hershoff, Clair Mearns, 2000
Page Views: 588 total, 7/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Dec 1, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Mohare Eclaire climbs the left side of the dihedral staying close to the arete on the left. The crux comes at the third bolt above a small ledge. The moves off the ledge are not obvious but staying to the right of the arete seems to work the best. The moves above the crux are easier but powerful and sustained.

Location

This is the first bolted route to the right of Parental Abuse. It is located around the corner after crossing an exposed gully. Descend from a two bolt anchor at the top.

Protection

8 bolts to a two bolt anchor. There are two belay bolts at the bottom of the route and a single bolt further to the left which can be used for a a more comfortable belay.

Photos

Mark Roth
Boulder
 
Mark Roth   Boulder
 
Crux is at the 5th bolt. It's by far the hardest move on the route. Then a good clipping hold and another pretty hard (while pumped) move....

Did anyone leave a draw on the last bolt? I have it. Describe and I'll return it to you.... Jan 4, 2013