Uomama bin Rotten
Avg: 0 from 2 votes
Routes in Child Free Zone (aka Parkway Crags)
|5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Big Loose Goose? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Child Abuse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Cool Thing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Fergus Traverse V1 5|
|Hairball T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X|
|Mohare Eclaire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Monkey Puzzle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Mousetrap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mystified Monkey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Off Guard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Parental Abuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Power and Lies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Power and Lies Trad Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Puzzled Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Rafiki S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Rodent, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Scream Amy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Skin Deep S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Unknown S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Unknown 3 (Rat Race?) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unknown 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Unknown Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Unknown L S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Unknown Q S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Unknown Rib S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Uomama bin Rotten TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Page Views:||688 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||Alan Nelson on Nov 3, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route has some of the absolute worst rock I've encountered in a quarter century of cragging. The only other route that even came close fell into the Pacific back in the '80s. Large sections of this pitch have bear a strong resemblance to used clumping cat litter in appearance, feel, and structural integrity.
It is listed as a "chipped" route because countless holds were created, destroyed, and modified during the initial ascent, and it seems certain that this process will be repeated on any subsequent ascent. No tools beyond bare hands (I left my chalkbag in the car) were used in the "manufacture" of this route.
Despite stone that barely qualifies for the classification, the climbing is quite engaging. The real challenge is not in climbing 5.10 moves, but in distributing your weight and pressure on the holds without blowing them to pieces. Pull a little too hard and you'll need to scrape out a new hold with your fingertips. The crux comes about 40' up where the wall bulges slightly.
From where the Access Fund trail skirts the base of the lower tier of the Child Free Zone, head right on the path that traverses the base of the wall. Follow it all the way to the right, past the giant cave/gully to a spot where there is 15' or 20' of better rock at the base of the wall. There is a nice 80' bouldering traverse (Fergus' Traverse - V1) from one gully to the next along the base of this wall, and a bolted Richard Wright route on the right that goes halfway up the cliff. Start about 20' left of Richard's route in a grey corner with a crack that looks better than it is. Head straight up using anything that comes to hand (tossing off about half of it). On the upper wall, follow a crack up the middle of the wall left of the chimney past endless perched boulders to a particularly large one that hasn't fallen off the rim yet.
Don't forget your helmet, don't set your pack at the base, and be sure to belay from well off to one side. There's not much point in bolting it into a sport route - even with 25 clips it would still merit an R or X protection rating.
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