Type: Sport
FA: Wright, Tarrant, Veraldi, 2003
Page Views: 1,817 total · 10/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 5, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Access Issue: Rim Rock Trail Closure Details

Description

Power and Lies ascends the face and arete just right of the Un-named Monkey. This line was originally envisioned to keep on the arete (5.10+), but will most likely get done via the face and trough on the left (5.9). Fun climbing on good stone, with a small thrill popping on to the ledge. FFA for arete variation went to Mark Tarrant.

Protection

Eight draws and a rope. It shares an anchor with Cool Thing and GWB.

Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.9
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.9
There is a loose block jug that is all chalked up in the trough/groove on the L. Beware, it is hollow, it shifts, & will come out in time (hopefully not on your belayer). Mar 10, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
The easiest line works the crack to the left, stemming right to make the clips. Climbing the bolt line more directly looked quite difficult.

After leading this route, you can top-rope Off Guard and Cool Thing if you don't want to lead those more difficult routes. Oct 26, 2004
Ian Welch
Denver, CO
  5.9+
Ian Welch   Denver, CO
  5.9+
Great route, follow up the thin crack to the right (left of the bolt route) for a nice line. The bolt route seemed a bit scant for holds, where does the 5.10+ come from? Sep 19, 2006
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.10
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.10
I would say this is 10+ if you stay in the crack immediately to the left of the bolt line, without going into the big gully. Staying in the 'mini-dehidral' makes for a fun and interesting sequence of moves. Mar 2, 2008
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.10-
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.10-
One of those routes where it could be hard if you don't use certain features etc, etc.... Skip this one and do one of the good lines to right as a warm up for Monkey Puzzle. Mar 31, 2010
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9
I agree that Power and Lies is probably 5.9 if one stays within reach of the bolts yet uses the larger cracks on the left side of the lower inset and 5.10+ for the thin crack on the right side of the lower portion. With trad gear, the lower cracks might be 5.8 but still 5.9 to get to the top (which is worthwhile). Top anchors are two bolts higher and different than shared top anchors for Off Guard and Cool Thing. Mar 8, 2011
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.10+
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.10+
I watched some folks climbing PAL just recently, and it seems pretty clear why this route, unlike the two routes left of it, gets such disparate grades: 5.9 to 5.10+. When climbed on the bolt line and not well left of the bolts, it is good and solid 5.10, perhaps 5.10c. When done using the face on the left, it comes in close to 5.9, give or take a bit. Whatever works. Leading from the left does entail stretching over to the clips, so watch out. Feb 20, 2014