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Routes in Child Free Zone (aka Parkway Crags)

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Loose Goose? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Child Abuse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cool Thing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fergus Traverse V1 5
Hairball T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Mohare Eclaire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mousetrap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mystified Monkey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Off Guard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Parental Abuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power and Lies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power and Lies Trad Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puzzled Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rafiki S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rodent, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scream Amy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skin Deep S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 3 (Rat Race?) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown L S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Q S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Rib S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Uomama bin Rotten TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Wright, Tarrant, Veraldi, 2003
Page Views: 1,703 total, 10/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 5, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Power and Lies ascends the face and arete just right of the Un-named Monkey. This line was originally envisioned to keep on the arete (5.10+), but will most likely get done via the face and trough on the left (5.9). Fun climbing on good stone, with a small thrill popping on to the ledge. FFA for arete variation went to Mark Tarrant.

Protection

Eight draws and a rope. It shares an anchor with Cool Thing and GWB.
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
I watched some folks climbing PAL just recently, and it seems pretty clear why this route, unlike the two routes left of it, gets such disparate grades: 5.9 to 5.10+. When climbed on the bolt line and not well left of the bolts, it is good and solid 5.10, perhaps 5.10c. When done using the face on the left, it comes in close to 5.9, give or take a bit. Whatever works. Leading from the left does entail stretching over to the clips, so watch out. Feb 20, 2014
Dave Clark 5.10
Golden, CO
  5.9
Dave Clark 5.10   Golden, CO
  5.9
I agree that Power and Lies is probably 5.9 if one stays within reach of the bolts yet uses the larger cracks on the left side of the lower inset and 5.10+ for the thin crack on the right side of the lower portion. With trad gear, the lower cracks might be 5.8 but still 5.9 to get to the top (which is worthwhile). Top anchors are two bolts higher and different than shared top anchors for Off Guard and Cool Thing. Mar 8, 2011
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.10-
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.10-
One of those routes where it could be hard if you don't use certain features etc, etc.... Skip this one and do one of the good lines to right as a warm up for Monkey Puzzle. Mar 31, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.10
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.10
I would say this is 10+ if you stay in the crack immediately to the left of the bolt line, without going into the big gully. Staying in the 'mini-dehidral' makes for a fun and interesting sequence of moves. Mar 2, 2008
Ian Welch
Denver, CO
  5.9+
Ian Welch   Denver, CO
  5.9+
Great route, follow up the thin crack to the right (left of the bolt route) for a nice line. The bolt route seemed a bit scant for holds, where does the 5.10+ come from? Sep 19, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.9
The easiest line works the crack to the left, stemming right to make the clips. Climbing the bolt line more directly looked quite difficult.

After leading this route, you can top-rope Off Guard and Cool Thing if you don't want to lead those more difficult routes. Oct 26, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
  5.9
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
  5.9
There is a loose block jug that is all chalked up in the trough/groove on the L. Beware, it is hollow, it shifts, & will come out in time (hopefully not on your belayer). Mar 10, 2004