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Routes in Child Free Zone (aka Parkway Crags)

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Loose Goose? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Child Abuse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cool Thing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fergus Traverse V1 5
Hairball T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Mohare Eclaire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mousetrap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mystified Monkey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Off Guard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Parental Abuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power and Lies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power and Lies Trad Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puzzled Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rafiki S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rodent, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scream Amy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skin Deep S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 3 (Rat Race?) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown L S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Q S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Rib S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Uomama bin Rotten TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Wright, Tarrant, Lisa Veraldi, 2003
Page Views: 1,437 total, 8/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 6, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Just what the world needs: more routes on Table Mountain. Our goal here was to get in the hard face right of Monkey Puzzle, but the additional routes that also went in will flush out the climbing in this small sector. "Cool Thing" ascends a short slab to a very awkward corner system. The corner may or may not be 5.11, but it has a weird sequence that is easy to do incorrectly. The FFA went to George Valdez in mid-week, the 2nd or 3rd of Dec.

Protection

Nine draws and a rope.
Hansen Wendlandt
  5.11-
Hansen Wendlandt  
  5.11-
I recommend NOT setting the last draw as a directional, if you TR this climb after leading Off Guard. Doing so causes some pull to the right, when you want to move left. Feel free to set a draw on the penultimate bolt, but really, if you are gunning for an 11a, you won't fall until that bolt anyway, so just go straight and make it easier all around. Oct 27, 2017
I'm visiting from CA and misidentified this as a 5.7 in the Brown Clouds area. Obviously, it was a curse fest when I took a baby whip at the top.

Anyway, the bottom seemed fairly mellow. The crux for me was the weird layback/roof thing at the top. Like it was said, the actual moves might not be 5.11, but the sequencing was tricky.

Overall, the route was clean, well protected, and fun.

cheers Mar 3, 2008
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Another excellent line. Fun stemming up the initial corner, then an off-balance layback followed by some thin slab moves. Oct 26, 2004
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
 
Seems like flopping up onto the slab at the top of the corner was the crux. Orr, orr, orr. Good route. Loose finish. Loads of bolts. Nice fer us cluckers. 70 ft. Mar 10, 2004