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Routes in Child Free Zone (aka Parkway Crags)

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Loose Goose? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Child Abuse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cool Thing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fergus Traverse V1 5
Hairball T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Mohare Eclaire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mousetrap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mystified Monkey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Off Guard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Parental Abuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power and Lies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power and Lies Trad Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puzzled Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rafiki S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rodent, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scream Amy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skin Deep S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 3 (Rat Race?) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown L S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Q S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Rib S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Uomama bin Rotten TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Richard Wright, Dr. ABS, 1994
Page Views: 643 total, 6/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

There seems to be some confusion about SD. The route listed on the upper tier is not SD. It may refer to one of Dan Hare's lines or one of Joe Desimones'. SD is the further right of two routes, both about 100 yards right of Cool Thing on the lower tier. SD starts on very nice, almost chocolate-colored stone. Mantle up on a small ledge to clip the first bolt. The crux comes in the subsequent ten feet. After the fourth clip, the rock becomes sharper and more friable but climbs on decent edges. There is indeed a double bolt anchor at the top. These welded cold shuts, although solid enough, should probably be replaced with more durable gear.

Location

It is 100 yards right of Cool Thing.

Protection

Eight quickdraws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Ralph Kolva
Evergreen, CO
 
Ralph Kolva   Evergreen, CO
 
Be careful on this one. The fifth bolt sounds like it's in a chunk of rock about to come out. The anchors are probably not long for this world and neither is most of the rock above the 3rd bolt. The top half of this climb is through the semi-permanent mud that runs between the lower and upper tiers of Golden Cliffs and after doing this climb you can understand why there are so few climbs through that band. I don't like to trash a climb that somebody obviously put some time and money in protecting, but if you venture on this thing, be careful and checkout the description of Uomama bin Rotten to see what you're in for, this climb ends in the same rotten rock. Nov 6, 2009