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Routes in Child Free Zone (aka Parkway Crags)

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Loose Goose? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Child Abuse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cool Thing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fergus Traverse V1 5
Hairball T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Mohare Eclaire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mousetrap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mystified Monkey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Off Guard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Parental Abuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power and Lies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power and Lies Trad Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puzzled Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rafiki S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rodent, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scream Amy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skin Deep S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 3 (Rat Race?) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown L S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Q S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Rib S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Uomama bin Rotten TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Dan Hare and Noel Childs, 2004
Page Views: 2,002 total, 21/month
Shared By: Jay Eggleston on Mar 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

The Rodent chases 5 bolts up the left wall of the big open book. The arete on the left of the face provides some good holds from which to transition to the right onto the face. This transition is the crux. Once on the face, a nice crack leads up to a small ledge which is a couple of moves from the anchor. We did not encounter any rodents.

Location

The route climbs the left wall of an open book about 50 feet right of Big Loose Goose and 20 feet right of a short, unknown route up an arete with 3 bolts. The route begins on a 4' high pedestal from which the first bolt can be reached.

Protection

5 bolts. Two bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Scott Hunt
Golden, CO
Scott Hunt   Golden, CO
There is a new sport route to the left of this. Feels like 5.8-5.9. Anyone know what it is? Dec 5, 2016
TJ Quirk
Parker, CO
5.10a
TJ Quirk   Parker, CO
5.10a
Last climb of the day, so I top-roped The Rodent. I agree that the crux is getting off the arete to the face. The holds are well chalked, but quick and accurate (deadpoint) placement is the required skill.

To get to the anchors, I took the trad line up the crack in the corner to the right of The Rodent. That line is like 5.7-5.8 ? Mar 14, 2010