Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Child Free Zone (aka Parkway Crags)

5.8 Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Big Loose Goose? S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Child Abuse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Cool Thing S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fergus Traverse V1 5
Hairball T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Mohare Eclaire S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mousetrap T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mystified Monkey T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Off Guard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Parental Abuse S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Power and Lies S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power and Lies Trad Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puzzled Monkey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rafiki S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rodent, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scream Amy T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skin Deep S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown 3 (Rat Race?) S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown 2 T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown L S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Q S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Rib S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Uomama bin Rotten TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 875 total, 4/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Mar 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

At the left end of the lower tier, about 20' from the trail is this juggy but slightly overhanging prow. It is quite obvious and striking as you're walking down the hill. It's too short to call a route, too messy on top to rig a good toprope, so I classify it as a psycho boulder problem. Falling is not an option - you'll probably bounce all the way to the parking lot (taking your spotter with you, if you've got one). Carefully inspect the holds by scrambling up around the side, then tackle the prow straight on from the base for a thrill (or chill) you'll not soon forget.

Protection

Big kahunas and a tiny brain.

Photos

Jason Haas
  5.9 R
Jason Haas  
  5.9 R
A little exaggerated on all accounts really. There is a somewhat bad landing that could be remedied with a pad if you were truly hellbent on climbing this and were indimidated about it as is, but even without a pad, it is only an "R", probably not even that with a pad. There is a very wide landing that would be nearly impossible to miss and send you rolling down the hill. You'd have to jump kick off the rock and maybe even give another leap once on the ground to reach the downhill terrain to start rolling. The problem is V0- and quickly forgotten, mostly because of its short stature rather than the quality of the rock. Also, "big kahunas and a tiny brain" as indicated above are not necessary gear. Dec 2, 2007