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> Joshua Tree NP
> Pinto Basin
> Stirrup Tank
> Stirrup Tank West
> Zippy Rock
And Grooving Was Grooving
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Zippy Rock
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And Grooving Was Grooving T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Stallion, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Canalizo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Die Young T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Does Royalty Give Head? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Don't T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free As Can Be T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Free Jerry T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X |
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Freebird TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gargoyle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hans Solo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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J.B. Goes to J.T. TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jedi Master T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Moustache, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Maxle S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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New Hamster S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Way Down T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Shongo Pavi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Watermelon Sugar T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wild Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 33.95941, -116.01935 |
| FA: | Ben Chapman & Randy McClure (April 1994) |
| Page Views: | 1,474 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Benjamin Chapman on Nov 28, 2010 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The crux of this route is navigating around/through the maze of "cats claw" bushes that now guard the start. Begin at the base of two parallel right leaning water grooves that extend 3/4 of the way up the face. Jam and palm the shallow grooves until you reach the aplite dike that diagonals across the upper face. Continue up the dike to the top. Place an anchor in the crack at the top as for Shongo Pavi & Hans Solo.
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