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Routes in Zippy Rock

And Grooving Was Grooving T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Stallion, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Canalizo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Die Young T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Does Royalty Give Head? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free As Can Be T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargoyle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hans Solo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
J.B. Goes to J.T. TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jedi Master T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moustache, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Maxle S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Hamster S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shongo Pavi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wild Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Ben Chapman & Randy McClure (April 1994)
Page Views: 455 total, 5/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Nov 28, 2010
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The crux of this route is navigating around/through the maze of "cats claw" bushes that now guard the start. Begin at the base of two parallel right leaning water grooves that extend 3/4 of the way up the face. Jam and palm the shallow grooves until you reach the aplite dike that diagonals across the upper face. Continue up the dike to the top. Place an anchor in the crack at the top as for Shongo Pavi & Hans Solo.

Location

Middle of Zippy Rock, begins at ground level, 50 feet left of Jedi Master & Shongo Pavi.

Protection

Small to medium cams in the water grooves. The upper face is unprotected. Medium cams for the anchor.

Photos

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