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Routes in Zippy Rock

And Grooving Was Grooving T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Stallion, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Canalizo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Die Young T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Does Royalty Give Head? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free As Can Be T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargoyle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hans Solo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
J.B. Goes to J.T. TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jedi Master T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moustache, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Maxle S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Hamster S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shongo Pavi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wild Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Ben Chapman & Pam Neal - January 2016
Page Views: 988 total · 31/month
Shared By: Benjamin Chapman on Jan 30, 2016
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Begin climbing right of the toe of the buttress on the steep slab. Climb up friction past two horizontals to a steep face. Continue up the face past another horizontal to the top.


South end of Zippy Rock. The broad buttress 40 ft left of Gargoyle.


5 bolts & 2-ring Fixe anchor shared with Gargoyle & Canalizo.


toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Did this last week..we liked it.. Feb 7, 2016
A bunch of us took turns leading this climb. Thanks for setting it up. I'm surprised this was setup so recently given the easy access to the area.

Feb 29, 2016
John Wanner  
Perhaps one of the best routes in Joshua Tree at its grade. Reasonably well protected, clean rock & easy access make this well worth doing Mar 21, 2016
Josh Lemonds
Josh Lemonds   Westminster
Led this with a big black Chuckwalla staring at me the whole time. I hope he didn't see me pulling on the last quickdraw to get past the crux. I had my belayer walk the rope over to Gargoyle so we could toprope it. Mar 30, 2017
Anni Ala
Joshua Tree
Anni Ala   Joshua Tree
We found this route quick and more on par with 5.5. Actually, I did it in my approach shoes ;-) Nice friction and a few good moves! Dec 17, 2017

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