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Routes in Zippy Rock

And Grooving Was Grooving T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Stallion, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Canalizo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Die Young T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Does Royalty Give Head? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free As Can Be T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargoyle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hans Solo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
J.B. Goes to J.T. TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jedi Master T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moustache, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Maxle S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Hamster S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shongo Pavi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wild Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Mike Stewart and Miguel Carmona, April 1987
Page Views: 640 total, 5/month
Shared By: Adam Kimmerly on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Well protected and fun. Climb up to the first bolt and then toe jam up a flaring seam a ways to the second bolt. From there, head up on smears to the third bolt. With the third bolt at your waist, you'll encounter the crux - a wide, unlikely step across to the right onto a slopey smear with some little crystals to crimp on as you make the move. Clip the 4th bolt from there and make some more delicate smears up to easier climbing, then the top.

The anchor take a #2, #3, & #4 camalot or similar. Not many options for small gear so bring at least a couple of larger pieces. Downclimb off the back

Location

Just left of Gargoyle.

Protection

4 bolts (3/8")

Photos

Phil Esra  
 
I guess it's "well protected" at the hardest crux, but you can definitely deck if you fall before the 2nd bolt, and the climbing is not particularly easy at that point. Be careful. Fun slab. New bolts at the top of Gargoyle as of Xmas 2012. Jan 3, 2013
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10c
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10c
Canalizo looked about 5.8 from the ground, but we had realized our mistake by the 2nd bolt. Excellent thin face moves and smearing throughout. The upper part is well protected, but the 1st and 2nd bolts are well spaced, on thin friction, expecially on Mike Stewart's original 1/4" X 1" Rawl button heads. I still have the original bolts hanging in the garage, from when we upgraded the protection to 3/8" X 4" in 1992. Not a fan of the bolted convenience anchors that keep popping up around the park, but certainly miss the anchor that some idiot chopped, to the right of Gargoyle, that made descending Canalizo & Gargoyle a breeze. Nov 28, 2010