Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Mike Stewart and Miguel Carmona, April 1987
Page Views: 769 total · 5/month
Shared By: Adam Kimmerly on Sep 9, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Well protected and fun. Climb up to the first bolt and then toe jam up a flaring seam a ways to the second bolt. From there, head up on smears to the third bolt. With the third bolt at your waist, you'll encounter the crux - a wide, unlikely step across to the right onto a slopey smear with some little crystals to crimp on as you make the move. Clip the 4th bolt from there and make some more delicate smears up to easier climbing, then the top.

The anchor take a #2, #3, & #4 camalot or similar. Not many options for small gear so bring at least a couple of larger pieces. Downclimb off the back


Just left of Gargoyle.


4 bolts (3/8")


Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Canalizo looked about 5.8 from the ground, but we had realized our mistake by the 2nd bolt. Excellent thin face moves and smearing throughout. The upper part is well protected, but the 1st and 2nd bolts are well spaced, on thin friction, expecially on Mike Stewart's original 1/4" X 1" Rawl button heads. I still have the original bolts hanging in the garage, from when we upgraded the protection to 3/8" X 4" in 1992. Not a fan of the bolted convenience anchors that keep popping up around the park, but certainly miss the anchor that some idiot chopped, to the right of Gargoyle, that made descending Canalizo & Gargoyle a breeze. Nov 28, 2010
Phil Esra  
I guess it's "well protected" at the hardest crux, but you can definitely deck if you fall before the 2nd bolt, and the climbing is not particularly easy at that point. Be careful. Fun slab. New bolts at the top of Gargoyle as of Xmas 2012. Jan 3, 2013