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Routes in Zippy Rock
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And Grooving Was Grooving T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Stallion, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Canalizo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Die Young T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Does Royalty Give Head? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Don't T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Free As Can Be T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Free Jerry T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c X |
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Freebird TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gargoyle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Hans Solo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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J.B. Goes to J.T. TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jedi Master T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Moustache, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mr. Maxle S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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New Hamster S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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No Way Down T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Shongo Pavi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Watermelon Sugar T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Wild Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 33.95941, -116.01935 |
| FA: | Todd Gordon and Cyndie Bransford, February 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,115 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Walking around to the south face of Zippy Rock will bring this gem of a route into view. Stop here! - this is as close as you want to get...trust me. Even the FA party claims it as one of their worst.
So you really want to climb this route? Starting from a wide crack climb the gritty, light-colored slab, with a texture akin to freshly dried kitty litter, passing bolts which offer more in the way of a route marker than actual protection. Belay on top and walk off (if you make it that far), reflecting on your excellent choice for a route.
This route is a candidate for "Worst route in Joshua Tree", and while it may not be the worst it could place as high as the top ten. One advantage to doing this route is it puts all those other bad routes you've done into context.
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