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Routes in Zippy Rock

And Grooving Was Grooving T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Stallion, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Canalizo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Die Young T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Does Royalty Give Head? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free As Can Be T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargoyle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hans Solo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
J.B. Goes to J.T. TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jedi Master T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moustache, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Maxle S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Hamster S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shongo Pavi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wild Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon and Cyndie Bransford, February 1989
Page Views: 314 total, 2/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Walking around to the south face of Zippy Rock will bring this gem of a route into view. Stop here! - this is as close as you want to get...trust me. Even the FA party claims it as one of their worst.

So you really want to climb this route? Starting from a wide crack climb the gritty, light-colored slab, with a texture akin to freshly dried kitty litter, passing bolts which offer more in the way of a route marker than actual protection. Belay on top and walk off (if you make it that far), reflecting on your excellent choice for a route.

This route is a candidate for "Worst route in Joshua Tree", and while it may not be the worst it could place as high as the top ten. One advantage to doing this route is it puts all those other bad routes you've done into context.

Protection

5 bolts, pro to 2.5"

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Here is some beta, if you must lead this pile;....Carefully lieback up the wide crack to the first bolt.
After clipping the first bolt, drop down and to a low traverse over to a crack. Climb and grovel up the crack placing a couple of medium cams until you get to the 2nd bolt.....After clipping the 2nd bolt, it would probably be best to downclimb and get your cams, so you won't have too much rope drag. Grain up steep gritty face past 3 or 4 more bolts to a bolted anchor. Nov 17, 2012
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
The Don't now has new bolts and a bolted anchor on top. The old 1/4" and 5/16th" buttonheads are gone; replaced by sturdy 3/8" rawls. This climb is still a "don't do" climb, for the rock is shit and the climb is run-out too. If you have to do this climb, throw a top rope on it. Even with good bolts, the climb still sucks, but at least you won't die on this climb anymore... Nov 17, 2012