Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kenton, Card, Moselle Dipane, Alan Galura
Page Views: 845 total · 13/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Jun 19, 2013
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

Featured face past several holes in the rock all in nice black patina.

Location

Located just right of Wild Dream.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (all 3/8")

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
The anchors on this route do not seem to be on top, but about 10 feet down from the top. What's the deal with that? Sep 7, 2013
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
  5.10+
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
  5.10+
I believe you can either rap from the anchors there (on top of B.S.) or finish to the top on Wild Dream....I think one finish on the upper headwall is plenty..
Climbers like to share... Sep 9, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
This route provides some steep, dynamic moves and well placed bolts. Final moves the color and quality of the rock change which possibly had something to do with the anchor placement. Save your rope, clip the anchors and come down. You don't need to dome out on this route. Want to hit the summit....do the neighboring route....once the bolts are replaced. Feb 9, 2014
Murf  
Nabbed an early lead of this one (although they all are at this point). The movement is good, but the rock brings the star count way down. Its bad enough when the crystals are so big they chew your tips like piranha, but when they come along for the ride embedded in your skin, it really brings the fun level down.

Had to take some of the starch out of my buddy KC so I now refer to this one as "Nightmare AKA Black Stallion". Feb 10, 2014