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Routes in Zippy Rock

And Grooving Was Grooving T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Stallion, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Canalizo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Die Young T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Does Royalty Give Head? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free As Can Be T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargoyle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hans Solo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
J.B. Goes to J.T. TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jedi Master T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moustache, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Maxle S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
New Hamster S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shongo Pavi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wild Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Kenton, Card, Moselle Dipane, Alan Galura
Page Views: 799 total · 12/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Jun 19, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Featured face past several holes in the rock all in nice black patina.


Located just right of Wild Dream.


5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (all 3/8")


Russ Walling
Russ Walling
The anchors on this route do not seem to be on top, but about 10 feet down from the top. What's the deal with that? Sep 7, 2013
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
I believe you can either rap from the anchors there (on top of B.S.) or finish to the top on Wild Dream....I think one finish on the upper headwall is plenty..
Climbers like to share... Sep 9, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
This route provides some steep, dynamic moves and well placed bolts. Final moves the color and quality of the rock change which possibly had something to do with the anchor placement. Save your rope, clip the anchors and come down. You don't need to dome out on this route. Want to hit the the neighboring route....once the bolts are replaced. Feb 9, 2014
Nabbed an early lead of this one (although they all are at this point). The movement is good, but the rock brings the star count way down. Its bad enough when the crystals are so big they chew your tips like piranha, but when they come along for the ride embedded in your skin, it really brings the fun level down.

Had to take some of the starch out of my buddy KC so I now refer to this one as "Nightmare AKA Black Stallion". Feb 10, 2014

More About The Black Stallion