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Routes in Zippy Rock

And Grooving Was Grooving T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Stallion, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Canalizo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Die Young T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Does Royalty Give Head? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free As Can Be T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargoyle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hans Solo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
J.B. Goes to J.T. TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jedi Master T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moustache, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Maxle S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Hamster S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shongo Pavi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wild Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Miguel Carmona & Alois Smrz, May 1988
Page Views: 602 total, 11/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Jun 17, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Around the corner from Hans Solo and the other east facing routes, is the north side of Zippy Rock. Hike around the right side of Zippy Rock and look back east and up high; will see a very steep, beautiful highly featured face. This is Wild Dream. Climb up plates until the plates run out, then up past two old bolts to the summit.


N. Face of Zippy Rock.


A good selection of cams and stoppers. Quick Draws, and long reach and balls for the top.
Russ Walling
Russ Walling
How do you get off this thing after topping out? Sep 7, 2013
Kenton Card
Washington DC
Kenton Card   Washington DC
I really enjoyed this lead – the steep climbing on positive plates with protection between the patina felt unusual for joshua tree. And when you think the climbing is over... welcome to the desperate slab top out on 1/4'' bolts. The bolts protect the crux well, but should be replaced. Jun 18, 2013