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Routes in Zippy Rock

And Grooving Was Grooving T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Black Stallion, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Canalizo T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Die Young T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Does Royalty Give Head? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free As Can Be T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gargoyle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hans Solo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
J.B. Goes to J.T. TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jedi Master T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moustache, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Maxle S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
New Hamster S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shongo Pavi T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wild Dream T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, 1982
Page Views: 325 total, 3/month
Shared By: C Miller on Oct 4, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Make difficult moves into the left-slanting flared crack that starts above the ground and continue above as it gets lower-angled and easier. It's possible to traverse in from the right if the bottom is too difficult.

Originally rated 5.10c, but the start has gotten harder over the years due to erosion at the base of the route.

Protection

Gear to 2.5"

Photos

Adam Kimmerly
  5.10+ PG13
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.10+ PG13
The route is now eroded enough at the base to require a moderate sized cheat stone to maintain a 5.10c rating. I don't think it would even be possible to start the route without it. As Obi mentions, traversing in from the right is easier and makes the route 5.9 or so. The "R" is warranted for the extremely flaring, shallow, blind gear placements and the crumbly/seldom traveled rock. Fortunately the route isn't very long, the difficulties are near the bottom, and the ground below is very soft sand which pushes the danger rating (IMHO) back down to "PG-13". You're not likely to get seriously injured on this thing even if your gear blows.

Interesting climbing though, and fun. More length would earn this route more than a single star and also a stout "R" rating. Nov 5, 2007
Obi
Portland, OR
Obi   Portland, OR
An alternative is to approach the crack by traversing from the right, by the base of Hans Solo. A few unprotected slab moves gains entry into the crack.

Although the moves aren't necessarily super hard, the blind tricky gear placements adds a lot of "spice" to this climb (if approached from the right, but probably true for the direct start). Nov 5, 2007