Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,043 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Oct 16, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Starts with some thin moves up a boulder-like bulge and a single bolt. Blowing the mantle would result in decking. Traverse up and right from the ledge, passing jugs. Continue up the shallow dihedral to a thin move before gaining more jugs. Traverse into Aborigine at its first set of anchors.

Location

Left of Aborigine/Whore of Babylon

Protection

6 bolts

Photos

C Hopwood
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Hopwood   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Nothing slabby about this jug haul! This route is between 6-8 bolts, depending on how you do it. The locals told me the single bolt on the boulder, with thin moves, was actually the start to Psycho-Wussy 11b, and that the 10c started on the upper ledge. It definitely spices up the 10c if you start from the trail. After the lone bolt, leave the upper ledge and follow 4 more bolts up and right on jugs, with one big move after the 4th, and then traverse right on jugs into the permadraws of Aborigine and clip 3 of those to the chaindraw anchors of Aborigine. Definitely a redpoint crux just before the chains. Oct 6, 2012