Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,157 total · 11/month
Shared By: Ryan Myers on Sep 16, 2010 with updates from Rachel Peterson
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

19 Opinions

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Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
5.10b/c PG13
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
5.10b/c PG13
On toprope, I found this route to be much trickier and immensely more difficult than the popular 5.9 route to the left. I also have red pointed the other 9 across the wall--which is also a bit tricky to lead, but much easier than this so-called 5.8. The moves through the first wall crack were about as hard as the crux on KGB. The upper section about 15 ft below the anchors was at least 10c if you don't stem the chimney on the right. Even the bulge below those two closely-spaced bolts was harder than anything on Neptune, which is 10a.

What gives? Does someone think this is funny? I think that intentionally misleading other climbers is childish and irresponsible at best, and reckless endangerment in the interest of ego inflation at worst! May 22, 2013
James Willis
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10a PG13
James Willis   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10a PG13
I'd like to echo Ted's sentiment regarding the difficulty of the route. The run out between the first and second bolts definitely places this climb in the PG13 range and the grade of 5.8 is extremely sandbagged considering all of the moves on bulging faces. Aug 20, 2013
Joe Cayer
Mesa, Az
Joe Cayer   Mesa, Az
I believe the Marty guide lists this one as gear and bolts. You can protect the bottom bulge with gear. Not one of my favorite climbs, but not too bad with protection... Oct 5, 2013
Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
I led the broken, left-trending crack to the right of the actual (lower part) route and found it enjoyable and 5.7ish. I protected it with two cams. Thought the upper portion was in the 9 range (I stemmed below the chains). Sep 23, 2014
Shell Bell
  5.9 PG13
Shell Bell  
  5.9 PG13
Really fun route. Is a bit tricky for a 5.8 especially if you haven't done much outdoor climbing before. Would recommend this route to intermediate gym climbers that are looking to get the outdoor climbing experience.
Great holds for feet and hands with two ledges that allow you to rest right before the last Crux which is getting to the last bolt before the anchors. However the Crux part has amazing holds and there are holds for feet to maneuver you're way through to get to the last bolt. Didn't place any gear...I'm rating it 5.9 and PG~13 only because the risk of a serious injury from the slight run~out toward the top. Mar 16, 2018
Slick Williamson
  5.9+ PG13
Slick Williamson  
  5.9+ PG13
Not recommended for leading if 5.8 is anywhere close to the top of your ability (miserable, scary, and hard unless you can comfortably lead 5.11 since you may wrong turn your way into those moves). The 5.8 rating does not follow the bolted line on the face according to the queen creek rock jock's guide. The face moves under the anchor are 5.11. You should place gear in the crack after the first bolt, but it's a strenuous hold for the placement. There could be a 5.8 climb there somewhere but I didn't find it. Jun 28, 2018