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Routes in Atlantis South Side

Ali Cat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black & Tan S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bunny Slope S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diaper Rash S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Exposure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Born S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
G-String S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giggling Marlin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grumpy after Eight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hide and Seek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
KGB S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mangler, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mickey Mouse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mondo Freako S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overbearing Underminer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shoot First, Ask Later S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sir Charles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slap & Tickle S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trident, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
U.S. Senators Are Space Aliens S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jim Steagall & Eric Hanson '92'
Page Views: 1,730 total · 13/month
Shared By: David Arthur Sampson on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


72 Opinions

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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

The bulging face is probably the crux. Bucket pockets and rails makes this a fun, albeit a bit pumpy climb. A scrambling start to a ledge before the route kicks in.

Location

W-NW facing, this climb is mostly in the shade; we climbed in mid June. Left of KBG and left of the bolted (5.8) chimney.

Protection

Six bolts; well protected. Two-shut anchor.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
FA's - Jim Steagall & Eric Hanson '92 Apr 19, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Two bolt ring anchor. No shuts anymore. Jul 19, 2008
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10a
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10a
Some loose hangers. Great rock. Dec 8, 2010
Chuck Jones
Phoenix, AZ
 
Chuck Jones   Phoenix, AZ
 
Fun climb, free start with great moves at the top end. Fun climb. Thanks for this route. Jul 22, 2012
Edmund Kao  
 
You can use the first two bolts on First Born to protect your start if you don't want to go all the way up to the first bolt scrambling. That would cause some excessive rope drag, so I'd only recommend it if you can arrange for someone to climb First Born and unclip those two bolts once you are protected by a bolt or two on this route. Apr 24, 2013
Connor England
Tooele, Utah
  5.10a PG13
Connor England   Tooele, Utah
  5.10a PG13
Second to last bolt is hard to see and just looks like the route was bolted kinda sketchy, but it is just up over the edge a little hidden. Fun route, too bad the first half is a scramble.

Sep 1, 2014
Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
  5.10a
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
  5.10a
Enjoyable upper, pumpy section. Looks like this route could have gone for another 25 feet or so. Sep 23, 2014
The second bolt was extremely loose and was sticking out about half and inch. I hand tightened it, but it could use a wrench. Jul 9, 2017
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.10a
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.10a
Added ClimbTech "Top Anchor Hooks" to this yesterday for easy lowering. It'd be great if people would still TR through their own draws and just lower on these. Dec 29, 2017

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