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Routes in Atlantis South Side

Ali Cat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black & Tan S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunny Slope S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Diaper Rash S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Exposure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Born S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
G-String S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giggling Marlin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grumpy after Eight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hide and Seek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
KGB S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mangler, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mickey Mouse S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mondo Freako S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overbearing Underminer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shoot First, Ask Later S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sir Charles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slap & Tickle S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trident, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
U.S. Senators Are Space Aliens S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport
FA: Chad Cooper & Briana Broderick 11/94
Page Views: 307 total, 2/month
Shared By: Marcy on Jun 17, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Scramble up a broken section past a tree to a ledge. Climb the arete to a 2 bolt rap. First move off the deck has some exposure.

Location

Located on the 'fin', rock-right of Mondo Freako and Unknown (5.6?).

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
  5.8-
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
  5.8-
I thought this was similar in difficulty to G-String but with more positive holds. Bolt hangers still missing but not really needed to climb this as long as you are not climbing at your limit (which may put this out of your comfort range). A small cam could protect the upper section where the other hanger is missing. Fun route though and worth climbing so either stick clip bolt 2 or bring a hanger+nut for bolt one (maybe I'll actually contribute something to the community:)) Sep 23, 2014
Chuck Jones
Phoenix, Arizona
 
Chuck Jones   Phoenix, Arizona
 
Matt Evan's description is spot on. Just recently climbed this again, and feels more 5.9 than 5.7. Fun climb minus the protection issue. Jul 22, 2012
matt evans
salt lake city, UT
5.9 PG13
matt evans   salt lake city, UT
5.9 PG13
This route is way harder than a 5.7. Perhaps a large flake has broken off in the past month or so. The first and fifth hangers are missing, like other posters have said. I would rate this route a 5.10a or harder. I led giggling marlin with ease, but this route sketched me out so bad. It's easy when you get up near the top though (I'd say a 5.10b start and a 5.7 finish actually). Oct 3, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Hangers are still missing. Just hang some wired stoppers from the bolts. Fun climb! Sep 4, 2011
Johnny Ice
Tucson, AZ
Johnny Ice   Tucson, AZ
I saw a bolt with a removed hanger about 8 feet off the ground that would've been nice to clip. I was thinking to myself "gee, if I fell I could dash my brains out on the tree, rock, or ground that are 20 feet below". I'm an advocate for not over bolting but hey, there should be some protection off the start so there won't be a 20 foot fall... but perhaps I missed the pro. Mar 30, 2011
5.6. Use this as a warm-up. May 25, 2010
As of 9MAR09 the first bolt is still sans hanger, and the 3rd or 4th bolt is also missing the hanger. Both studs still in place. Mar 13, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
FA's - Chad Cooper & Briana Broderick 11/94 Apr 19, 2008