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Routes in Atlantis South Side

Ali Cat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black & Tan S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bunny Slope S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Diaper Rash S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Exposure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
First Born S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
G-String S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giggling Marlin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grumpy after Eight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hide and Seek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
KGB S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mangler, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mickey Mouse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mondo Freako S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Overbearing Underminer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shoot First, Ask Later S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sir Charles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slap & Tickle S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trident, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
U.S. Senators Are Space Aliens S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Scott Duemler
Page Views: 4,175 total · 30/month
Shared By: Eric Foster on Apr 23, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Awesome climb, i think it could be a classic, it has everything from chimmney, stemming and great face climbing.

Location

Start as same as double exposure left of KGB.

Protection

Many bolts to chains

Photos

Marcy M
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.8
Marcy M   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.8
There are 8 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor with chains on this route. It is located between Grumpy After Eight (5.10a) and KGB (5.10b). Look for the prominent chimney up high. Stemming to chimney to face climbing - there is a nice variety of climbing at a moderate grade. Note - bolts are on the outer portion of the chimney and difficult to reach if you get too deep into the chimney. Jun 17, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8
Initially when starting this route I was thinking, "why bother" but as it turns out the chimney section is really fun. (it reminds me of The Sport Chimney in Calico Basin/Red Rocks)

It's a nice route addition for the grade. Not many warm ups or moderates in Atlantis. Apr 20, 2008
JimmyK
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
JimmyK   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
Some rope drag on the top due to placement of anchors. Great route. Jan 24, 2009
alexfrenchfries
  5.9-
alexfrenchfries  
  5.9-
Short, but interesting climb with different sections. Leading it is definitely tougher than top roping it. As other climbers have noticed, the bolts are on the outer portion of the chimney, so don't get too comfortable tucked inside the chimney. At least for me, it felt like a long reach to the bolt. Also, because of the sections, taking a long lead fall might mean you could hit something on the way down. 8 bolts to anchor. A 60m rope easily covers it. Nov 24, 2009
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
This is a good climb. It has variety and the chimney in the middle makes you think a bit since there is what feels like a run out between bolts. If you just climb up then traverse right to clip the bolt off good holds, you will see that it is a little heady but very do-able. Apr 11, 2010
Edmund Kao  
 
The chimney contains loose rock. Be careful not to knock a rock down on your belayer. I would recommend that belayers were helmets (as always), and stand as close to the wall as possible to avoid getting hit.

Extending the anchors using a cordelette or long draws can dramatically reduce the rope drag on top-rope. Apr 24, 2013
Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
  5.7+
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
  5.7+
Really enjoyed this route! After climbing at the pond last week, this was a nice change of pace from climbing another pocketed face. Seemed easier than other 5.8s in QCC, though I haven't climbed Bunny Slope for crag comparison.

@Edmund - thanks for the headsup on extending the anchors, definitely helped for the TR. Apr 5, 2014
This route is pretty awesome. Great lead, and super fun to get a bolted chimney. I think it's a must do if you're coming to Atlantis for the first time. I didn't notice any notable loose rock in the chimney as of a the last couple months. Jul 30, 2015

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