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Routes in Atlantis

Ali Cat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
All Kings Men S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Armed and Dangerous S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black & Tan S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Brush Your Teeth Before You Kiss Me S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Bunny Slope S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Capital Punishment S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cracka ass Cracka T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Diaper Rash S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Direct Start S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Exposure S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Feast and Famine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
First Born S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flakes of Wrath S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fluid Dynamics S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
For Some Reason T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
G-String S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Giggling Marlin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grumpy after Eight S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hide and Seek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Impending Doom S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
KGB S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mangler, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mickey Mouse S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Mondo Freako S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Neptune S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overbearing Underminer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Phantom S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Public Hanging S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Public Hanging Direct S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Schizophrenic Boulevard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shoot First, Ask Later S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sir Charles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slap & Tickle S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smokin Guns S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trident, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trinity is My Name S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
U.S. Senators Are Space Aliens S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown Dihedral T,S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Unnamed Crack Near Feast & Famine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Scott Duemler
Page Views: 3,852 total, 30/month
Shared By: Eric Foster on Apr 23, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Awesome climb, i think it could be a classic, it has everything from chimmney, stemming and great face climbing.

Location

Start as same as double exposure left of KGB.

Protection

Many bolts to chains
This route is pretty awesome. Great lead, and super fun to get a bolted chimney. I think it's a must do if you're coming to Atlantis for the first time. I didn't notice any notable loose rock in the chimney as of a the last couple months. Jul 30, 2015
Toby Wehler
Indianapolis, IN
  5.7+
Toby Wehler   Indianapolis, IN
  5.7+
Really enjoyed this route! After climbing at the pond last week, this was a nice change of pace from climbing another pocketed face. Seemed easier than other 5.8s in QCC, though I haven't climbed Bunny Slope for crag comparison.

@Edmund - thanks for the headsup on extending the anchors, definitely helped for the TR. Apr 5, 2014
Edmund Kao  
 
The chimney contains loose rock. Be careful not to knock a rock down on your belayer. I would recommend that belayers were helmets (as always), and stand as close to the wall as possible to avoid getting hit.

Extending the anchors using a cordelette or long draws can dramatically reduce the rope drag on top-rope. Apr 24, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
This is a good climb. It has variety and the chimney in the middle makes you think a bit since there is what feels like a run out between bolts. If you just climb up then traverse right to clip the bolt off good holds, you will see that it is a little heady but very do-able. Apr 11, 2010
alexfrenchfries
  5.9-
alexfrenchfries  
  5.9-
Short, but interesting climb with different sections. Leading it is definitely tougher than top roping it. As other climbers have noticed, the bolts are on the outer portion of the chimney, so don't get too comfortable tucked inside the chimney. At least for me, it felt like a long reach to the bolt. Also, because of the sections, taking a long lead fall might mean you could hit something on the way down. 8 bolts to anchor. A 60m rope easily covers it. Nov 24, 2009
JimmyK
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
JimmyK   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
Some rope drag on the top due to placement of anchors. Great route. Jan 24, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8
Initially when starting this route I was thinking, "why bother" but as it turns out the chimney section is really fun. (it reminds me of The Sport Chimney in Calico Basin/Red Rocks)

It's a nice route addition for the grade. Not many warm ups or moderates in Atlantis. Apr 20, 2008
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.8
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
  5.8
There are 8 bolts and a 2-bolt anchor with chains on this route. It is located between Grumpy After Eight (5.10a) and KGB (5.10b). Look for the prominent chimney up high. Stemming to chimney to face climbing - there is a nice variety of climbing at a moderate grade. Note - bolts are on the outer portion of the chimney and difficult to reach if you get too deep into the chimney. Jun 17, 2007