Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,833 total · 13/month
Shared By: David Arthur Sampson on Jun 20, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


52 Opinions

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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

KGB has, I think, two crux sections. The first is the thin face near the start and the second is pulling the roof. This is a delicate climb with fun moves and sustained pulling. A good rest under the roof enables the on-sight or redpoint.

Location

Creek-left, KGB can be spotted on your right as you enter the corridor of the waterfall area. Look for the short roof 60 up.

Protection

Seven bolts, two shut anchor. Well bolted.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10
FA's Burns brothers (Gary & Bill) Ken Mills '92 Apr 19, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10
Greg, the shut is still the original. Lot's of threads on the bolt...I hand tightened it today.

Incidentally, the original 3 shut anchors up top have been replaced with 2 fatty petzl hangers about a foot below. Apr 20, 2008
August West
Oakland, CA
August West   Oakland, CA
Painful ledge-decking potential between bolts 2 and 3 on this route. Be careful there! Nov 9, 2009
K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10b
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10b
Maybe my favorite climb in Atlantis. It has a little bit of everything from balancey moves to monster jugs. Long route. Definitely recommended Sep 27, 2010
Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
 
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
 
I am wondering if a hold broke up above the roof. It seemed harder then a 10b and I didn't see any chalk up there. It looked like most people have traversed right and finish on gigglin marlin. I also felt the bolt spacing is a little bold and somewhat dangerous with respect the the ledges below you. Clipping the 7th bolt above the roof was scary. The lower section is pretty fun though with committing crux moves in between the bolts. Nov 26, 2012
Adam-phx-trad Saieed
Phoenix, AZ
 
Adam-phx-trad Saieed   Phoenix, AZ
 
Micah
I was kinda noticing the same thing about the roof in respect to difficulty i couldn't seem to figure out the moves to get over it and had to traverse over to gigglin.
the bolt was tricky to clip but once you figure it out its not too bad definitely didnt want to fall while clipping though.

also there is a loose flake in between gigglin and KGB near the anchors be careful if you try to use it to traverse to the correct anchor Aug 5, 2013
beytzim
 
beytzim  
 
It's my understanding that some hold did break off a few years ago at the roof crux. You can still climb the roof, but it's more like a 5.10c/d move. Jun 29, 2016