Avg: 3 from 89 votes
|Type:||Sport, 265 ft (80 m), 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||FKA: Matt Johnson, Michael Genovese, Troy Dixon|
|Page Views:||4,804 total · 125/month|
|Shared By:||Matthew.Johnson91 on Nov 7, 2017 · Updates|
|Admins:||Aaron Mc, Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
This is a one-time and free process so once you are registered you are good to go.
You can read more about this process and the announcement at the Queen Creek Coalition website – theqcc.com or the Queen Creek Coalition’s Facebook page – facebook.com/Queen-Creek-Co…
It's a great moderate outing on its own and it also offers climb-in access to the upper tower routes and the New England wall, allowing for some rad link-ups!
Pitch 1. Starts on Mondo Freako (FA: Chad Cooper, 1994). Climb past the Mondo Freako anchors to a chain anchor about 25ft higher. Belay is in an alcove with a bush visible from the ground. (5.7, 65ft)
Pitch 2. Climb past two bolts, 3 pitons, then 4 more bolts to belay from a chain anchor on top of the first tower. Bring 9 draws + anchoring gear. (Pitch one and two can be combined for a long, fun endurance pitch, 15 draws + anchor gear) (5.8, 120ft) Update 4/15/2019 - apparently the 2nd of the three pitons is missing on this pitch. The grade isn't too hard in that spot but bringing a #7 stopper or a .4 or .5 cam will protect it if you don't like the runout.
Move belay up to the bottom of the final pitch following the established path on the ledge.
Pitch 3. Spot the leader to a high first bolt, crux is to the first bolt. Exposed. Gets gradually easier. (5.9, 80ft)
Decent: You can rap the route or walk off the back. You can rap the 2nd pitch with a 60m
OR . . . The adventure continues with Poseidon's Throne for a super rad linkup!
Hints for a successful rappel: Rap 1: rope is easier to pull the farther you are from the wall. Very easy from the top of the P2 tower. Rap 2: throw the rope out to the climber's right. Chains on P1 are slightly climber's right of the chains on P2. Rap 3. Watch for pebbles dislodged with your rope when you're pulling.
Walkoff Description: From the top of the tower head South toward the higher tower. Follow trail to the left along the base of this cliff following well worn route down short boulders and through bushes until you reach the big rockslide. Head down the rockslide then follow cairns down to the creekbed. If linking with the routes on the New England Wall, head uphill at the rockslide and follow cairns.
*This route is designed to be topped-out and rapped or walked off. If you try to TR from the P3 anchors, you may wear the sheath on your rope unnecessarily.
** Helmets! Although we've been over it all with a hammer and crowbar, there may still be some loose rock. Please test holds and be aware for the safety of other climbers in the area especially below.
P1: 5 draws plus your anchor gear. The final 25 feet is 5.easy so we didn't waste bolts. If you're scared, bring a set of stoppers and an extra draw.
P2: 9 draws, anchor gear
P3: 4 draws, again a set of stoppers and an extra draw or two if the 5.easy runout on top scares you.